A Mediterranean Paradise in Malta

During my whirlwind two months of living in Stockholm in the spring of 2018, I spent my weekends bouncing through the Baltics and exploring the rest of Scandinavia. But given that spring in Sweden is equivalent to winter in Los Angeles, I was in desperate need of sunshine. On a whim, I booked spontaneous tickets to the cheapest and warmest corner of Europe Ryanair would fly to: Malta. Little did I know that this would become one of my new all-time favorite destinations.

VALLETTA

With its honey colored limestone houses, sapphire harbor, and cascades of bougainvillea crawling up towards emerald balconies, Valletta is a feast for the senses.

I chose to stay in Valletta as opposed to Malta's legendary beach towns for three reasons: convenience, ambiance, and serenity. Having only a few short days to explore, I wanted to be central to my desired destinations. I'm also a big fan of wandering around gritty cities, especially of the Mediterranean seaside variety. But above all, I was not in the mood for a fratty beach atmosphere teeming with hammered Brits. I wanted a quiet and tranquil escape, and Valletta checked all my boxes.

Valletta in bloom

Though there were plenty of sights to explore in Valletta, like the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens and St. John's Co-Cathedral, I spent most of my time aimlessly wandering with no particular destination in mind. Every corner I turned was more picturesque than the last, every hill surrendering even more sparkling vistas.

In typical fashion, I also spent a fair amount of time sipping Aperol Spritzes in bustling plazas, people watching, and soaking in the joys of solo travel. 

I didn't mind climbing the hilly streets of Valletta when they looked like this

If you avoid the tourist trap restaurants in the city center, Valletta is also an surprising culinary destination. Here are my favorite restaurants with gluten-free options in Valletta:

Noni

211 Republic Street

Trouncing all previous meals in Malta, Noni was my most memorable gastronomic experience in Valletta. With its rustic yet elevated cellar vibes and impressive wine list, this upscale eatery was an experience I'd like to relive over and over again. I indulged on the local sheep cheese salad with beets in mead vinaigrette, smoked pork belly with braised pigs cheeks, and creamed cabbage with bacon.

Guzé Bistro

22 Old Bakery Street

Serving up classic Maltese dishes with a gourmet twist, this bistro is situated in a 400-year old palace built by the Knights of Malta. This rustic cellar is an ideal place to try local delicacies such as rabbit, Malta's signature dish.

Trattoria Romana Zero Sei

75 Old Theatre Street

When you're so close to Italy, it's not a crime to suddenly crave Italian food. Bypass the tourist traps in central Valletta and head to this authentic joint run by sassy Romans. With its cozy interior and comfort food, you'll feel right at home here. Gluten-free pasta and other GF dishes abound.

Piadina Caffe

24 St. Lucia Street

Every morning I'd come here for a cappuccino (and sometimes a gluten-free baguette). Lounging on the hilly sidewalk and people watching as the city awoke was surely one of my favorite pastimes in Malta.

GOZO

No weekend in Malta would be complete without a day trip to Gozo. In typical Mediterranean fashion, it was a serious pain in the ass to get there. Also in typical Mediterranean fashion, the trek was 100% worth it.

The stops on my itinerary were Victoria (Gozo's capital, also known as Rabat), Dwejra, and Xlendi Bay. I contemplated renting a scooter, but I also wanted to wear a sundress. (Can you blame me? I had been freezing in Stockholm for the past two months, and seriously needed to defrost.) Fashion always trumps function because of who I am as a person, so I chose the sundress and took one of those "hop on, hop off" bus tours that I would normally scoff at.

I swallowed my pride and surprisingly enjoyed the freedom of the big red bus. Uninterested in the bus tour's mundane sightseeing facts, I plugged in my own music and enjoyed the scenery with the wind whipping through my hair, exploring as I pleased and answering to nobody.

The views of Gozo from Victoria's Citadel

The highlight of my day in Gozo was undoubtedly Xlendi Bay, with its crystal clear water an unbelievable shade of turquoise and quiet harbor glistening in the sun. Though the town itself was tiny, I dreamt of spending a few days here swimming, napping in the sun, and drinking spritzes on the sea.

My favorite places to visit have never been pristine or picture perfect. I'd rather travel somewhere colorful, crumbling, and full of character. From Havana to Hanoi, I've fallen hard for the cities that are gloriously gritty. Needless to say, Xlendi Bay was love at first sight.

I'm no Game of Thrones fan, but I still wanted to visit the arresting cliffs of Dwejra. Although the Instagram famous Azure Window had recently collapsed, the striking cliffs were still worth visiting! 

As a side note, how many Game of Thrones filming locations do I have to visit before I actually need to start watching the show? 

BLUE GROTTO

Malta may be a small country, but it is packed with natural beauty. Just a 30 minute bus ride from Valletta, the sapphire waters of the Blue Grotto are absolutely not to be missed. 

After being dropped off at the bus station, I leisurely walked down the hill towards the harbor. From there, I explored the best vistas and made my way into the small town to catch a boat tour. I use the term "boat" liberally here; it was actually more of a crowded dinghy. But the captain was kind enough to give me the best seat for photos, frequently stopping to let us soak up the Blue Grotto's splendor. 

Not a day goes by that I don't think of Malta's pure magic, and I'm aching to go back and spend more time there. Though the island is small, there's still so much to explore. Maybe I'll even pack an appropriate wardrobe and rent a scooter next time. (But then again, who are we kidding.)

5 Reasons Not to Skip Viñales, Cuba

Jagged cliffs commanding the lush emerald horizon. Candy colored homes illuminated against cerulean skies. Palm trees dancing in the warm breeze. Though Viñales doesn't quite fit the traditional definition of "paradise", its unique charms assert it as just that.

While it's tempting to focus an itinerary around the captivating allure of Havana, there's more to western Cuba than its bustling capital. Quiet and underrated, Viñales offers all of the enchantments that get lost in Havana's charismatic cacophony.

Although it still feels somewhat off the beaten path, Viñales is not to be missed when planning a trip to Cuba. In fact, I'd argue that you're better off spending more days in Viñales than Havana. Surprised?  Read on to find out why you simply can't skip the Viñales Valley!

1. Soak up sublime nature

The lush Viñales Valley is best known for its arresting natural beauty, a striking contrast from Havana's crumbling urban chaos. With its majestic karst mogotes jutting out of the farmlands, the landscape feels decidedly otherworldly. Its vast sea of green evokes reverence and awe for Mother Nature.

In order to legally travel to Cuba as an American, I joined a People-to-People exchange with Discover Corp. The tour I chose, Preserving Nature's Wonders, primarily focused on exploring Cuba's tropical countryside and biosphere reserves. 

According to Discover Corp, "Despite being so close to the USA, Cuba has remained largely isolated from the primary sources of pollution - pesticides, agricultural runoff, and large scale development. Coupled with government conservation efforts, Cuba has been dubbed 'the accidental Eden'."

It's no surprise that Cuba's strict environmental policies and lack of development have left Viñales in such a well-preserved state. With the town's traditional farming practices and communities still in tact, it feels as if time has stood still here.

2. Savor small town charm

The peaceful streets of Viñales made up for everything that overwhelmed me in Havana. With its vibrant pops of color, rustic patios, and welcoming communities, it didn't take much for this small town to enrapture me. While hiking, biking, and horseback riding are popular ways to explore the town's verdant landscapes, I opted to wander the colorful streets, soak up my surroundings (along with a few fruity cocktails), and get lost in the picturesque neighborhoods.

In order to support the Cuban people and immerse yourself in the local culture, I highly recommend staying in casas particulares (homestays in privately owned bed & breakfasts). This will make for a much more authentic and personal experience than staying at an upscale state run hotel, where a room for one night costs more than the average Cuban's yearly salary.

While most casas particulares will cook you a hearty breakfast every morning, many are also able to prepare homemade Cuban comfort food for dinner. The families we stayed with in Viñales served up some of the freshest fare that I had on my trip, with every flavor-packed plate far more satisfying than its restaurant equivalent.

But along with Cuba's small town charms come a peculiar set of inconveniences. Forget about wifi, ATMs, well-stocked shops, or conveniently being able to buy whatever you forgot to pack. Since most establishments are state run, they carry the same items and run out relatively quickly. Many Cubans are accustomed to stocking up on what they need whenever it becomes available, because you never really know when or where you'll find it next. Pack accordingly!

Without having reliable access to wifi in Cuba, I took the week to unplug and intentionally live in the present. Despite the initial social media withdrawals, disengaging from my online community helped me feel that much more engaged with the local culture. As challenging as it was for me to go eight days without internet, it certainly won't be the last time I go off the grid.

3. Enjoy farm-to-table cuisine

Known for its fertile farmland, Viñales is a gold mine of organic crops. Immerse yourself in its agricultural traditions by dining at the charming Finca Agroecológica Paraíso. This organic farm and family restaurant serves delectable, guilt-free dishes featuring their own freshly grown produce. Not to mention, their cozy restaurant boasts dazzling panoramas of the Viñales Valley.

The generous family-style meals include a healthy variety of savory soups, root vegetable dishes, and succulent main courses. Not to mention, their signature anti-stress cocktail made with mint, anise, basil, lemongrass, coconut milk, pineapple juice, cinnamon, honey, and hierba buena will blow your tastebuds away (especially if you add a splash of Cuban rum)!

 

4. Buy Cuban cigars straight from the source

Even if you're not a cigar enthusiast, visiting a tobacco plantation in Viñales is a must. The Viñales Valley is home to the world's finest tobacco, where local farmers grow crops for the biggest and best cigar brands (such as Cohiba and Montecristo). However, tobacco farmers are required to sell 90% of their harvest to the government, and only get to keep 10% for themselves (thus enabling them to sell to visitors like myself).

The bucolic tobacco fields, dotted with ox-pulled carts and cigar-puffing farmers, paint a timeless picture of Viñales' idyllic countryside. Though my dad's bad habits have forever turned me off to the stench of cigars, I savored every moment of our tobacco farm tour and cigar rolling lesson. Huddled inside a barn where tobacco leaves are dried and seasoned, I took my first drag of a real Cuban cigar. And truthfully, it wasn't horrendous! (Just don't inhale.)

Farm fresh Cohibas

5. Take a day trip to Cayo Levisa

Have you ever visited an island more scenic than a Windows desktop background? Personally, the pristine white sand beaches of Cayo Levisa were the closest thing to heaven I've ever encountered.

Known as one of Hemingway's haunts, this tropical key off the northwestern coast is only about a 2-hour drive from Viñales, followed by a 45-minute boat ride. (However, be warned that the unpaved roads can wreak havoc on those with weak stomachs.)

With its sparkling sapphire waters, picture perfect palms, and sugar-white sand, Cayo Levisa is a serene slice of paradise. Despite being home to a small resort (and all the touristic activities that come along with that), the island still feels fairly isolated.

I decided to embark on a short snorkel excursion, but unfortunately the reefs were quite bleached. After another bout of motion sickness on the rocky ride back to shore, I crash-landed on the beach and enjoyed a seaside siesta in a quaint bungalow. For those visiting Cayo Levisa for just one day, skip the snorkeling and opt for a relaxing afternoon of swimming and sun worshipping. 

Although there isn't an overwhelming number of things to do in Viñales, its charms embody the true spirit of Cuba. Its idyllic landscapes, vibrant culture, and welcoming people nourish the soul. Even if you only have a few days to spare in your Cuba itinerary, the inviting magic of Viñales should not be missed.

Have you ever been to Cuba? If so, what was your experience like?
Do you prefer visiting big cities or the countryside?

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