Making the Most of a Weekend Stopover in Iceland

By now, most savvy travelers have heard about the incredible Icelandair stopover deal. Through this ingenious bargain, Icelandair grants passengers an extended layover in Iceland for up to seven nights for no additional airfare.

Given its geographic position, Iceland is a convenient stepping stone between Europe and North America. I found the logistics to be especially favorable, considering a flight from Reykjavík to Seattle cuts a transatlantic journey in half. While it would normally take me about 16 hours to fly home via New York or Philadelphia, a direct journey from Reykjavík takes less than eight hours.

After taking advantage of this stellar deal, I can admit that it most certainly lives up to the hype. I immediately regretted not booking a longer stay. Only planning a weekend getaway vastly limited my opportunities, and I found myself wishing that I had taken advantage of Icelandair's full seven day deal. (But hindsight is 20/20, especially when you're on a tight budget!)

Given the short amount of time I had in Iceland, I nailed down my weekend itinerary to four main activities. While Reykjavík's 20.5 hours of sunlight per day helped me accomplish it all, it was difficult to prioritize so many bucket list adventures. While I'm sure I'll be back again someday (I made a promise to myself that I'd come back for the puffins!), I'm still satisfied with how I organized a weekend's worth of excursions. Here's how I made the most of a weekend stopover in Iceland:


Downtown Reykjavík

Colorful, quirky Reykjavík deserves at least one full day. It's possible to cut corners, but soaking up the city's vibrant personality requires ample time for exploring. Start your journey at the stately Hallgrímskirkja church. Commanding the skyline of downtown Reykjavík, the design of Hallgrímskirkja was inspired by Iceland's basalt lava flows. Take the elevator up to the top for the capital's most sublime panoramas.

Hallgrímskirkja church

Leave plenty of time to wander down Laugavegur, the city's main shopping street. This animated boulevard boasts a colorful array of restaurants, coffee shops, sleek boutiques and Icelandic specialty shops. Since Iceland is known for their quality wool, I picked up some cozy knitted socks for the rest of the weekend's adventures.

Be sure to also check out the picturesque Perlan, Tjörnin pond, Harpa concert hall and charming old harbor. Some of my favorite moments in Reykjavík were spent strolling along the waterfront past the iconic Sun Voyager (Sólfar) statue. 

Lively Laugavegur, the main shopping drag

The Golden Circle

Þingvellir National Park's otherworldly landscape

No trip to Iceland is complete without visiting the arresting scenery of the Golden Circle. Comprised of the gargantuan Gullfoss waterfall, bubbling Geysir hot springs and scenic Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, the Golden Circle is understandably one of the country's most famous tourist attractions. Since I had no desire to rent a car by myself, I turned to Arctic Adventures to help me see it all.

Gullfoss, one of Iceland's largest and most popular waterfalls

Iceland's striking landscape often made me feel as if I were on a different planet. Thingvellir National Park, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates slowly drift away from one another, is decidedly out of this world. Iceland's first parliament was founded here, and it's also one of the many

Game of Thrones filming locations.

How many Game of Thrones filming locations must I visit before I have to start watching the show?

Snorkeling in the Silfra Fissure

Located in Thingvellir National Park, the Silfra fissure is where two continents rip apart. Thanks to Arctic Adventures, we were able to snorkel between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This crack between the continents is filled with glacier water clear enough to see down to 100 meters!

The water gets its pristine qualities from being filtered through underground lava for 30-100 years. Due to its extreme visibility, the Silfra fissure is widely regarded as one of the best dive sites in the world.

Since the glacial water is near freezing, we bundled up in bulky dry suits that protected us from the extreme temperatures. While submerging my face in the water was initially alarming, I went numb several seconds later. The current leisurely carried us down the fissure as we marveled at its unique underwater beauty.

Our waterproof dry suits were surprisingly hard to maneuver in!

The Silfra fissure is the only place in the world where you can snorkel between two tectonic plates

The Blue Lagoon

Soaking in the silky waters of the Blue Lagoon was the perfect way to de-stress

Did you know that the Blue Lagoon isn't actually blue? The lagoon gets its milky turquoise color from the sun reflecting upon the silica in the water. The water itself is actually white! In the summer, blossoming algae can also give the water a subtle green tint.

Seeing as the Blue Lagoon has been at the top of my bucket list for years, I was willing to pay the outrageous fee to enter. But while I thought I was getting a 50€ deal online, my reservation and transportation costs totaled to 82€. You win some, you lose some.

Be sure to book your reservation online in advance, and note that the "standard" entrance package does not include use of a towel. In the lagoon, there is a station for free silica mud masks and a swim-up bar. All you have to do is scan your wristband, and you'll automatically be charged for whatever purchases you make inside the lagoon.

Reykjavík Excursions offers hourly bus transfers to the Blue Lagoon from downtown Reykjavík or Keflavík Airport. The Blue Lagoon is 47 km from Reykjavík, and only 23 km from KEF Airport. To maximize time on your stopover, I highly recommend visiting the Blue Lagoon going to or from KEF Airport.

Because I was in the process of moving from Madrid to Seattle (and therefore hauling three year's worth of luggage with me), I opted to do this excursion separately. After seeing how close the airport and Blue Lagoon actually are, I realized that I could have saved ample time and money by combining the two trips.

Cheesin' with my mud mask and disposable camera. (Perhaps it's time to invest in a GoPro...)

Iceland effortlessly stole my heart, and I'm already anxious to return someday. Like I said, I have to come back for the puffins!! Thankfully, Reykjavík is just a hop, skip and a jump away from Seattle compared to other transatlantic flights. You can bet that I'll be taking advantage of another Icelandair stopover next time I get the chance!

Have you ever done a stopover in Iceland?

How did you make the most of your time?

Tapas Crawling with Devour Seville Food Tours

I have always revered Andalusia's colorful capital as a mecca for foodies. After countless trips to Seville, its vibrant bars, bustling restaurants and mouthwatering delicacies still manage to lure me in. That said, I would rarely venture past my tried-and-true favorites. Little did I know what I had been missing out on! 

After savoring the Tastes, Tapas & Traditions tour with Devour Seville, I walked away with a full belly and a newfound appreciation for Seville's gastronomy. Thanks to the wit and wisdom of my guides Jaimie and David, I discovered a delectable selection of new favorite eateries in Seville. 

If you're eager to try authentic tapas and wondering where to eat in Seville, look no further than Devour Seville Food Tours.

Tostá de pringá, perhaps the best way to start the morning 

We started our morning at an iconic breakfast locale in the center. Though I had considered myself Seville-savvy before this trip, I immediately realized that I had been in the dark for years. How had I never heard of this darling diamond in the rough? This no-frills, locals-only bar immediately won over my heart (and stomach). After fueling up with our cortados, we tasted the signature tostá de pringá, a flavorful pork stew toast that delighted my senses.


Unbelievably tasty jamón ibérico

I like to think of Seville as the capital of all things quintessentially Spanish. It doesn't get much more Spanish than jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham), which is what we set out to try next. We ventured to a local market, where we learned about the intricate techniques of cutting an Iberian ham leg. My tastebuds rejoiced as soon as the buttery jamón ibérico melted in my mouth. I've tasted my fair share of this national treasure, but what I had here was undoubtedly some of the best
jamón I've ever tried.

Naranjitos made by nuns

Our guides led us through colorful alleys, peppering our journey with fascinating anecdotes about Spanish and Andalusian history. Though I had studied (and subsequently forgot) quite a bit of Spanish history in college, they tied it together in a way that finally stuck with me.

I had no idea what to expect when we reached our next destination, for there wasn't a restaurant in sight. In fact, we had stumbled upon a hidden convent where the nuns are famous for making traditional sweets. Decidedly out of my element, I entered the convent with equal parts suspicion and curiosity. Our guides then ordered a tasty batch of naranjitos, an almond-based cookie with subtle hints of orange. I was immediately hooked.

Chorizo and carne mechada montaditos

Our next stop lead us to a Semana Santa themed bar, which was most certainly my favorite spot on the tour. With walls adorned with photos and relics from Seville's famed Holy Week celebrations, this hole in the wall served up some mean montaditos (small sandwiches). The spicy chorizo with roquefort cheese and carne mechada sandwiches positively rocked my palate. 

Although Holy Week only comes once a year, it's celebrated every day at this bar!

Next, we quenched our thirst with a particularly unique Seville specialty, orange wine. Yes, it's just as exquisite as it sounds! This aromatized orange wine is served at an iconic bar owned by a famous flamenco singer's son. Though the bar itself is tiny, the interior is sonorously brimming with charisma.

Orange wine, a sweet Seville specialty

Our next stop was an iconic freiduría that specializes in fried fish. Fried fish is an especially popular snack during Seville's renowned Feria de Abril celebration. The house specialty is the cazón en adobo (vinegar and cumin marinated sand shark), but I feasted upon fresh tomatoes drizzled with Andalusian olive oil and sea salt. 

For our final serving of home-cooked tapas, we set off towards a cozy tavern in the center of town. This tapas bar was coincidentally located below the hotel I stayed in during my first trip to Seville. My mom and I complained every night about how noisy it was downstairs - and for good reason! Consistently packed during meal times, this tavern is an undoubted favorite among locals. As soon as I tasted my first bite of Iberian pork shoulder, I immediately regretted not wandering in six years ago. 

You can never be too full for dessert...

To top off our feast, we ventured to an artisan ice cream shop that redefined my standards of dessert. Rumored to serve the best ice cream in Seville, this shop is notorious for its innovative flavors and Seville-inspired twists. I savored every bite of my chile chocolate and blueberry helado, though my inner-glutton was tempted to sample each flavor.

While tapas culture in Spain can certainly feel daunting at first, this tour offers a balanced "Tapas 101" introductory course. More than just a tapas tour, this culinary walking tour introduced me to countless new tastes and traditions of Seville. As well as I thought I knew Seville before, I came away with a delightful array of new go-to spots. Ultimately, this tour is an experience that's not to be missed when visiting Andalusia's striking capital.

The Tastes, Tapas & Traditions tour runs every Tuesday-Saturday morning at 10:30 or 11:15 am. The tour lasts about four hours and stops at seven family-run businesses. I highly recommend this experience to travelers interested in tapas culture and epicures eager to get off the beaten path!

Devour Spain graciously invited me on this tour, however, all opinions expressed are my own.

As a Celiac, I took this tour at my own risk. While Devour Seville can make substitutions to accommodate a gluten-free diet, they cannot completely guarantee avoiding cross contamination. If you avoid gluten and are interested in taking this tour, please get in touch with Devour Seville by email to discuss Celiac/gluten-free options.

Have you ever been tapas crawling in Spain?
What did you like best about the experience?

Why the Radio Silence? An Overdue Life Update

Oh, hey there! Long time no see. I've intentionally taken a temporary hiatus from blogging, but I promise my reasons are legit.

As Hemingway ever so wisely proclaimed,

In order to write about life, first you must live it.

And that, my friends, is exactly what I've been doing.

You see, today marks one month until I leave Madrid. For good. Cue sobbing.

I'm not even trying to be dramatic, for the mere thought of leaving this place immediately brings me to tears. I'm crying right now as I write this. I'm a hot mess, and at this point it's completely unstoppable.

How I feel about leaving Europe... on opposite day.

When I get really anxious, I do this really fun thing where I internally panic until my stress physically manifests itself in illness. In just the past week, I've battled migraines, stomach troubles, and now strep. I'm currently bedridden with a plethora of antibiotics and painkillers, hence why I finally have the time to sit down at my computer and spill my messy thoughts.

Weakened immune system aside, I've actually been having the time of my life during these two blog-free months. I promise to divulge all of the details in due time, but for now, here's a glimpse into what I've been up to since March - as well as what's to come!

I channeled my inner Indiana Jones at Petra, Jordan.

I fell really, really hard for Israel.

Prepare for a post that fully discloses my intense love affair with the Holy Land!

I still think Asturias is Spain's prettiest region.

The colorful fishing village of Cudillero gave me so many heart sparkles. I also ate my way through Oviedo, which consequently warranted a two week detox and about three month's worth of Tums.

I said hasta luego to Sevilla, my favorite city in Spain.

I also did some serious sightseeing through my tastebuds with Devour Seville Food Tours, which I will recount in full detail when I'm not writing on an empty stomach.

I went back to Cádiz for the first time since studying abroad six years ago.

The entire weekend was such a blur, and while that's partly the tequila's fault, I think it's mostly because it felt so surreal to be back after living there so many years ago. The town itself hasn't changed at all, but I feel like a completely different person. (Can you believe that back then, I actually hated living in Spain?! Blasphemy!) While revisiting old haunts felt entirely bittersweet, I had an incredible time giving the city the second chance it deserves. After this visit, I feel like things have truly come full circle.

My best friend came to visit!

We took way too many selfies, drank way too much rosé, and laughed so hard our stomachs hurt.

Then we went to Stockholm and ate all of the gluten-free snacks.

Because Celiacs that travel together stay together. Also, why is Sweden so good at everything?!?

I finally got Snapchat.

Hi Courtney, welcome to 2016. The last to hop on the bandwagon per usual, I finally succumbed to my millennial fate. Follow along with my unfiltered misadventures at courtney.likkel

WHAT'S NEXT?

Next weekend I'm wrapping up my European farewell tour with one last visit to my favorite city in the world... Paris!

As soon as school finishes, I'll bid my darling, germ mongering preschoolers adieu and jet off to Croatia for eleven days with my momma. I couldn't be more excited to traipse through the Adriatic with my original partner in crime and all-time favorite travel buddy.

On July 5th, I'll reluctantly drag myself to Madrid-Barajas airport with an obscene amount of baggage, both tangible and emotional. From there I'll cry all the way to Iceland, where I'll spend a few days pretending to be outdoorsy before flying home to Seattle on July 8th. (That is, assuming airport security doesn't escort me off the plane. Whoever is seated next to me is in for a real treat.)

As soon as I get in my fix of Chipotle and snuggles from Kitty Purry, it's time to start adulting. That entails buying a car, applying for jobs, and saving money to move into a place of my own. (Much like my fellow Spaniards that live with their parents for a shockingly long time, I'll be crashing with my pops until I can get my feet on the ground. Which is actually great, because my dad is my best bud, the ultimate grill master, and the cleanest person I know. The only catch is that he lives in a retirement community, so... yeah. Better save that cash quickly.)

My entire life will be turned upside down (though maybe not this literally)

In between all of this "adulting", I'm going to need a mental escape from the drudgeries of suburbia and reverse culture shock. This is when I plan to tackle my massive back log of travel posts, because at this point I'll be desperately needing to relive my adventures.

I know I haven't been the most consistent these past few months, but I hope you can forgive me and stick around as this tumultuous journey continues!

Have you got any advice for this soon to be ex-expat?

Please share your wisdom! (Or just send wine.)