Pre-departure Reflections: What's Next?

As I write this post, I really should be packing. But Kitty Purry is currently taking a siesta in my empty suitcase, and he looks too cute to be disturbed. I think I'll procrastinate a little longer.

A while back I was anxiously debating between staying in Madrid or coming back to resume life in the USA. Unsurprisingly, Spain won out. So on Monday, I'm off to Madrid for round three of teaching and tapas crawling. I couldn't be more excited.

But this time around, it feels bittersweet. I wish it weren't true, but I know in my heart that this will be my last year in Madrid. I can't quite put my finger on what specifically deters me from staying there longer (or forever). Maybe it's because being an auxiliar de conversación isn't financially sustainable, and I feel as if it's a dead end career-wise. Maybe I'm just ready for the next chapter. Leaving Madrid next July will shatter my heart to pieces, but I can't shake the feeling that this is the next step I have to take.

Whatever that next step is, however, is still a mystery. My third year in Madrid will be my make it or break it year for teaching. If I still love it after Year 3, I'll pursue a masters in teaching and go down the education path. If I decide that teaching really isn't for me, I'll try my hand at full-time writing and/or the social media field. I'm slowly getting the hang of this whole freelance thing, but I still have my long-term doubts. Ideally I'd like to teach and do some travel writing and photography on the side, so here's hoping that's possible!


No matter what I end up doing, I know where I'd eventually like to be. As much as I love the Pacific Northwest, this summer I realized that I've completely outgrown Seattle. It hurts my heart, but I just don't belong here anymore. So when it's time to return stateside, I need a big city on the west coast with good weather, decent public transportation, a booming foodie scene and gorgeous architecture. I want the closest thing to Europe that I can get in America. I'm fairly certain that San Francisco is it for me. (Finding a way to afford San Francisco, on the other hand, will be interesting...) 

So now that I've publicly declared my long-term plan, we'll see how it actually pans out. But in the meantime, there are plenty of good things on the horizon for the 2015-2016 school year. Travel wise, I've got a few exciting plans in the works that will knock out some top places on my bucket list. On the personal front, I'm working on a few projects that give me big-time heart sparkles - so stay tuned!

And of course... Madrid! After a summer apart, I can't wait to reunite with my stunning city. I can almost taste the tortilla. Yet as I emotionally prepare for round 3, I'm confronted by considerable nostalgia. I'm anxious about how different this year will be, and how it will compare to years past. This year will entail a brand new school, new students and coworkers, and presumably more new friends. I already miss my old students and friends who have permanently relocated stateside, but I'm trying to psych myself up for a brand new year. Change is good, right?

As messy as expat life may be, I hope you stay tuned to this year's travels and (mis)adventures. For real time updates, be sure to catch me on Instagram and Twitter!

5 Sights to Skip in Madrid

I have a problem with people who avoid every sight that's even remotely deemed "touristy".

I don't see any sense in going to Paris and avoiding the Eiffel Tower simply because it's the most popular tourist attraction. It may be packed with visitors, and the surrounding areas are remarkably overpriced, but it's also breathtaking. The same goes for other "mainstream" sights such as Barcelona's Sagrada Familia, Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, and Prague's Old Town Square. I'm not going to deny myself of beauty just because a lot of other people in this world think something is beautiful too.

As an expat going on three years, I feel the same way about downtown Madrid. "Touristlandia" between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace may be teeming with foreigners, but would I ever tell a first-time visitor, "Hey, don't go to Plaza Mayor or the Royal Palace, they're swarming with tourists!" Most certainly not.

Sure, I prefer scouting out places off the beaten path, surrounding myself with locals, and floundering my way through ordering food at restaurants where there's no English menu. My favorite travel experiences are always the ones where I seek adventures beyond the guidebook. But I'm also a camera-wielding, sandal-wearing, map-carrying foreigner, and I don't think I'm better than the rest of you.

For a well-balanced itinerary, I believe a trip should encompass a variety of must-sees and hidden gems.

So then, what do I avoid?

I steer clear of overt tourist traps (I'm looking at you, double decker bus tours and wax museums) and mundane activities that seem relentlessly overhyped. My foodie friends have also taught me to abhor overpriced, low quality restaurants that masquerade as authentic. I'm generally short on time and money when I travel, so I'm predictably turned off by the sights and experiences that appear to waste both.

Madrid is a magical city, and it should be experienced accordingly. Why settle for disappointing attractions when you could be experiencing Madrid's most spectacular enchantments? You deserve the best. If you're visiting on a time crunch, you'll especially want to prioritize accordingly. Here are what I believe to be five sights worth skipping in Madrid, along with their more authentic alternatives.


1. Plaza Mayor's restaurants

From the bottom of my heart, I want Spanish food to wow you. If there is one piece of wisdom I can impart from this entire blog, let it be this: do not, under any circumstance, dine at a restaurant in Plaza Mayor. These overpriced restaurants will not only leave you with a bad taste in your mouth (quite literally), but they are also gross misrepresentations of Spanish cuisine. Do not let these establishments give you a poor impression of Spain's phenomenal gastronomy. Unless you love frozen paella and tortilla that tastes like chalk, avoid these eateries at all costs.

Just say no to frozen paella.

Instead, try this:

Just a three minute walk away from Plaza Mayor lies Calle de la Cava Baja, Madrid's main foodie drag lined with vibrant taverns and tapas bars. It's hard to pick favorites, but my best bets for tapas in La Latina include Taberna la Concha, Taberna los Huevos de Lucio, Juana la Loca and Txirimiri. For more delectable eateries around the city, check out my list of favorite restaurants in Madrid.

2. The Teleférico

I consider this the Manneken Pis of Madrid's tourist attractions. While the first few minutes of the cable car ride boast pretty views of the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral, the rest of the ride is rather disappointing. The Teleférico drops you off in the middle of Casa de Campo, where there's nothing but a stark building filled with with arcade games, expensive souvenirs and over-processed food court snacks. The ride isn't a total bust, but it also isn't worth the hype.

Instead, try this:

Seek out more sublime views at one of Madrid's many rooftop bars, such as La Azotea at Círculo de Bellas Artes, Gymage, The Hat or Hotel Roommate Óscar. Not only do these rooftop terraces boast better views than the Teleférico, but you can also enjoy their striking panoramas while sipping refreshing cocktails. It's a win-win!

3. El Rastro

El Rastro, one of Europe's largest and most famous flea markets, takes place every Sunday morning in the neighborhood of La Latina. Vendors line Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores selling everything from leather bags to chipping Spanish antiques. If you sift through enough junk, you can probably find some buried treasures. But what I found was mostly overpriced pieces of plastic.

Fellow introverts be warned, the colossal and inundating crowds at this "bustling flea market" nearly gave me an anxiety attack. Inching my way down Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores was practically made impossible by the swarming hordes of window-shoppers. Considering I couldn't even come close to finding any eye-catching souvenirs, I didn't deem this episode worth the trouble.

Instead, try this:

You can find more gems and fewer crowds on Calle Velarde in hipster Malasaña, home to some of the city's best thrift shopping. Every Saturday during spring and autumn, Plaza de Dos de Mayo hosts a vibrant street market in the heart of Malasaña. The side streets of Malasaña and Chueca are also abounding with small shops and boutiques that sell locally made artisan goods.

4. A bullfight

Considering how much it has come under fire in recent years, bullfighting could be on its way out in Spain. Since Catalonia banned bullfighting in 2010, more political groups are supporting a nationwide ban on the controversial tradition.

Without getting too political, I will admit that I saw a bullfight back in 2010 on my first trip to Madrid. While I don't regret the experience, I'm certainly not willing to repeat it. I generally have a strong stomach, but I found most parts of the corrida de toros uncomfortably gory. There's nothing happy about a bullfight, and I don't believe it's a true reflection of Madrid's character. Simply put, your short time in the capital is better spent elsewhere.

Given the gore, I spent most of my time watching the matadors on the sideline...

Instead, try this:

Rather than watching death, seek out Madrid's authentic life. Spend your time doing more pleasant activities that actually reflect the heart and soul of Madrid. Explore the many diverse neighborhoods that make Madrid's personality so dynamic. Wander through the literary quarter of Huertas, enjoy a café con leche in one of the many cozy cafes in Malasaña, or bar hop and shoe shop in trendy Chueca. Drink a tinto de verano in a sunny plaza and admire how madrileños truly know how to live.

5. Kapital

Madrid's infamous seven-story nightclub is basically a European frat party without the free beer. Actually, the steep entrance fee usually includes one drink, so in reality one beer could technically cost you 22€. Frequented by inebriated tourists and study abroad students, Kapital has somehow achieved the status of a Madrid nightlife icon.

Have I been? Once. Did I have fun? For the most part. Would I go again? You couldn't pay me.

Let's be real, I probably would have loved this nightclub extraordinaire when I was 18. But now, there's only so much David Guetta, cheap vodka and large crowds that I'm willing to subject myself to, and I generally try to keep it to a minimum. So unless your idea of a good time is getting groped by a blacked out Italian and getting your phone stolen, Kapital is probably worth skipping.

I've officially lost count of how many times I've heard, "I got my iPhone stolen at Kapital last night!"

Instead, try this:

Head to Barrio Salamanca for a posh night out, or venture to the alternative bars and clubs in Malasaña. Gabana and TClub (Pachá) are my two favorite discotecas, while most of my favorite bars line Calle Pez and Corredera Baja de San Pablo in Malasaña. If you want to groove to Spanish music alongside locals, head to B12 in Nuevos Ministerios.


Madrid's diversity is part of what makes it so magical, so naturally, different attractions will appeal to different people. These are just my personal opinions; other visitors, expats and locals may very well disagree, and that's okay! 

Please note that I am not interested in turning this into a political discussion about bullfighting.

Have you ever been to Madrid?

What were your favorite sights, and what sights do you wish you had skipped?

Eating Gluten-Free in San Sebastián

The class, sophistication and unparalleled beauty of San Sebastián make it one of the most mesmerizing places to visit on the Iberian Peninsula. Most visitors are wise to come on an empty stomach, for this sparkling pearl on the Atlantic is also considered Spain's king of cuisine. 

While San Sebastián is home to the highest number of Michelin starred restaurants in the world, its famous pintxos are the beating heart of Basque gastronomy. A pintxo, named after the Spanish word for spike, is a tapa held together with a toothpick or skewer. Most of these savory appetizers are typically served atop a small piece of bread. 

The Basques have mastered the art of devouring pintxos through El Txikiteo, otherwise known as pintxos crawling. Hopping from bar to bar in search of the best small dishes to share with friends has become one of San Sebastián's most revered traditions. Every afternoon and evening, you can find hordes of hungry Basques bouncing between pintxos bars in San Sebastián's Parte Vieja, or Old Town.

As delectable as these bread-based finger foods may be, this tradition assuredly sounds like a Celiac's worst nightmare. Upon traveling to San Sebastián, the supposed gastronomic capital of Europe, all I heard was talk of the enticing pintxos bars abounding in the town's old quarter. Instead of getting excited about this acclaimed foodie heaven, I felt an impending sense of dread. How would I survive eating gluten-free in San Sebastián?

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, one of the main streets for pintxos hopping

Thankfully, avoiding gluten doesn't mean missing out on the city's best pintxos bars. Eating gluten-free in San Sebastián is no easy feat, but it's certainly not impossible.

The biggest challenge to overcome is the crowds, seeing as swaths of locals and tourists bombard the best pintxo bars during meal times. Getting a waiter's attention to place an order is fairly difficult in the first place, and holding their attention long enough to ask about potential allergens is even more challenging. Due to the sheer volume of people, waiters are typically in a rush and may not be the most friendly. But this is the culinary capital of Spain, so you do what you gotta do.

Never assume that something is gluten-free, even if it sounds like it naturally might be. Always tell your waiters "Soy Celiaca" if you have Celiac disease, and be sure to ask if certain dishes can be made gluten-free (sin gluten) or made especially without the bread (sin pan). However, because many pintxos are pre-made and laid out on the bar buffet-style, you won't be able to order every pintxo you want without the bread.

It's imperative to always state your allergy before you order. If you're nervous about the language barrier, print out a gluten-free restaurant card in Basque or in Spanish to show to your waiters.

The streets of the old town are typically packed during meal times

Sound daunting? It really isn't that bad. Once you get the hang of ordering pintxos sin gluten, you'll soon be devouring these mouthwatering dishes to your heart's content. Here's where to eat gluten-free pintxos in San Sebastián:

Taberna Gandarías

31 de Agosto Kalea, 23

What I Ordered:

Carrillera de buey  -  beef cheek
Croquetas de jamón  -  ham croquettes
Brocheta de pato  -  duck breast brochette
Tosta de queso de cabra con bacon  -  goat cheese and bacon toast
Solomillo  -  grilled beef sirloin toast
Jamón ibérico  -  Iberian ham

Savory, melt in your mouth beef cheeks

The Verdict:

Gandarías was the only restaurant I went to that offered an actual GF menu, which made it the easiest and safest place to eat gluten-free in San Sebastián. They even served some of their pintxos atop gluten-free bread! Every dish we ordered was positively delicious, but the beef cheeks and goat cheese and bacon toast were the best dishes of our day. Due to the relative ease of ordering and the plethora of gluten-free options, this was my favorite pintxos bar in town.

Gandarías' heavenly duck breast brochette

Zeruko

Calle Pescadería, 10

What I Ordered:

Bacalao a la hoguera  -  smoked cod with aioli, caramelized onions and liquid salad

"Bacalao a la hoguera" roughly translates to "cod on a bonfire"

The Verdict:

I've always had an aversion to fish, but when this smoking pintxo was offered to me, I simply couldn't pass it up. Served on its own metal grill, this "bonfire" cod was undoubtedly the best thing I ate all weekend. Although Zeruko's modern creations are a bit flashy, I would most certainly go back to San Sebastián just to eat this exquisite dish again.

Borda Berri

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 12

What I Ordered:

Magret de pato asado lentamente  -  roasted duck breast cooked slowly
Entrecot con piquillo y mostaza  -  fillet steak with whole grain mustard vinaigrette
Queso de cabra tostado con ciruela  -  grilled goat cheese with plums

Is it even possible to say no to goat cheese?
The Verdict:

By the time we hopped over to Borda Berri after the lunch-time rush, they had already run out of many of their famed dishes. What gluten-free options they did have left, however, were remarkably delicious. The busy waiters were curt, but nonetheless helpful. For the best of Borda Berri, make sure to get there early!

Atari Gastroteka

Calle Mayor, 18

What I Ordered:

Huevo a baja temperatura con habas y jamón  -  egg cooked at a low temperature
Solomillo con puré de zanahoria y salsa de vino  -  steak fillet with carrot puree in a red wine sauce
Patatas bravas  -  fried potatoes in a "spicy" tomato sauce
Crème brûlée

The egg cooked at a low temperature was one of the most savory bites I feasted upon all weekend

The Verdict:

The waiters at Atari were by far the most knowledgable about gluten-free dining. They were also, unsurprisingly, the most friendly. Unfortunately, this is one of San Sebastian's more pricy pintxos bars, but the security of knowing that my meal was entirely safe to eat made it worth every euro. Atari also offered us a fluffy loaf of gluten-free bread that tasted remarkably similar to a real baguette.

La Cuchara de San Telmo

31 de Agosto Kalea, 28

What I Ordered:

Lomo de ternera  -  veal loin
Foie gras
Vieira  -  scallop

Mouthwatering foie gras paired with a fruity glass of Rioja

The Verdict:

I was really bummed that La Cuchara de San Telmo's famed veal cheeks weren't gluten-free, but the alternatives did not disappoint. The scallop wasn't superb, but the veal loin and foie gras were phenomenal. This bar is where I realized that it would probably be impossible to be a gluten-free vegan in San Sebastián. (This bar was also a blatant reminder that I really, really hate crowds.)

La Cuchara de San Telmo is worth dining at if you can actually find a spot to eat

Txondorra

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 7

What I Ordered:

Pastel de pato con hongos  -  duck and mushroom pie
Brocheta de canguro  -  kangaroo skewer
Queso de cabra sobre jamón serrano  -  goat cheese over a slice of Serrano ham
Calamares a la plancha  -  grilled squid

Duck & mushroom pie, kangaroo skewer, grilled squid, and goat cheese with ham (clockwise)

The Verdict:

This pintxos bar was probably the least gluten-free friendly, seeing as the staff had a lot of trouble deciphering which pintxos contained gluten. (Or what gluten was, for that matter.) It all worked out in the end though, and I got to try a plethora of scrumptious dishes. (Who knew kangaroo could be so delicious?!) If you want to ask the waiters about gluten-free options, I recommend going before the restaurant gets very crowded.

Goiz Argi

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 4

What I Ordered:

Brocheta de gambas  -  prawns skewer

Prawns, where have you been all my life?

The Verdict:

Having hated seafood for most of my life, I had never actually tried a prawn before. Needless to say, this hole in the wall pintxos bar was the perfect place to try my first. I loved every bite! The chunky salsa atop the grilled prawns paired with tart Txakoli, a Basque sparkling white wine, sent my tastebuds to heaven.

Cheers, San Sebastián!

Please note:

For most of these dishes, I had to specifically ask for them "sin pan", or without bread. Remember to specify this, otherwise your naturally GF pintxo will come on top of a big pile of gluten!

Although I am usually sensitive to cross-contamination, I didn't get sick from any of these restaurants. That said, I did not look into how these bars prevent (or fail to prevent) cross-contamination, so eat at your own risk.

Do you have any food allergies? 

How do you survive them while traveling?