Exploring Colorful Kyoto

I'm overcome with a sense of calm as soon as I step off the bullet train in Kyoto. The city is filled with quiet alleys, mountainous vistas, and ornate vermilion temples juxtaposed with tranquil zen gardens. Charming, humble, and enchanting, the serene storybook escapes of Kyoto are the antithesis of Tokyo's organized chaos.

DAY ONE: KIYOMIZU-DERA TEMPLE

As opposed to jet lag, does train lag exist? Maybe my brain is still catching up to the speed of the bullet train. Or perhaps I'm still recovering from the sensory overload of Tokyo. Four straight days in the bustling capital was too much for this introvert. I desperately need to recharge.

As soon as I drop my bags off at my ryokan, incredulously gaze at the straw tatami mats that I am to sleep on instead of a bed, and fuel up with a green tea, I hit the road to explore Kyoto. I immediately feel more at ease. I amble towards my first destination, the colorful Kiyomizu-Dera Temple.

I'm greeted with a kaleidoscope of colors. Fall is in full swing, and I'm treated to a sneak peek of the bright foliage to come. I quickly realize that one of the best parts about Japan is its abundance of tranquil escapes, sometimes even hidden in the middle of the city.

Everywhere I go, large groups of adorable kids on school trips ask to take pictures with me. Chatting with them brings me back to my glory days of teaching English in Madrid. Not to mention, I feel like a local celebrity. Just what every Leo wants!

Tourists dressing up and taking selfies in traditional kimonos are also ubiquitous, which brings to mind many silent questions about cultural appropriation. But the locals seem to love the foreigners' interest in their culture... or they at least love making money off of it. I am perplexed by the irony of constantly dodging a sea of selfie sticks and wannabe-influencer photoshoots in the most sacred of temples. Alas, is this what travel has come to?

I wander back down the hill, along the Kiyomizu-Zaka Street lined end to end with souvenir shops and hidden gardens. Between shops selling matcha, noodles, teapots, kimonos, fans, and sweets, I'm bombarded by everything marketable about Japan. Though I've graduated from acquiring kitschy souvenirs, I amusedly observe the flurry as I make my way to the geisha district of Gion, in search of an elusive gluten-free dinner.

I'm a big fan of Kyoto

GION

Quiet corners of Gion, the geisha district

At this point in the blog post, I'd normally start gushing over the local cuisine. I'm sorry to report that you won't find that here. Unfortunately, Japan is the most difficult place I've ever traveled as a Celiac. Though the Legal Nomads GF Restaurant Card in Japanese is a huge lifesaver, as well as Jodi's comprehensive blog post about eating gluten-free in Japan, I still struggle. 

The unlikely hero in this situation is 711, which has safe options like hard boiled eggs, rice, and mochi. The 711's in Japan are actually quite elevated, asserting themselves as a haven for healthy snacks, clean restrooms, and free wifi. 

Almost every night in Kyoto, I venture to Shishin Samarai for traditional Japanese cuisine altered to be gluten-free. The food is delectable and inclusive, and I also enjoy taking my shoes off and sitting on the floor (which is how I usually eat at home in my living room). The staff is incredibly kind and accommodating, even when I accidentally wear the designated bathroom slippers back into the restaurant... oops. 

Despite my struggles to find gluten-free food, I'm still wowed by Kyoto, especially the quaint streets of Gion. The city smells like fresh wood and pine. The immaculately clean streets are lined with traditional houses with creaky wooden floors, geometric paper screens, pronounced roof tiles, and minimalist gardens. Though I don't spot any geishas (nor do I care enough to try), I wander down each alley and back towards the river, aimlessly soaking up its charm. 

Strolling along the river is a rite of passage in Kyoto

Believe it or not, I actually slept here

DAY TWO: FUSHIMI INARI SHRINE

I wake up surprisingly refreshed from sleeping on the floor on my ryokan's tatami mats. I make my way downstairs for a hearty breakfast of rice, rice, and more rice. Thinking I'd be ahead of the game by visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha's iconic vermilion torii gates at the crack of dawn, I arrive only to find out that everyone had the same idea as me.

Knowing full well I won't survive the sea of crowds without a little more caffeine, I treat myself to a frothy matcha at the shrine's elegant teahouse. Though overpriced, I relish the tranquil ambiance before braving the hordes of tourists and ascending the mountain.

This pastry, filled with delicious gluten, was sadly only used as a prop

Good thing I dressed appropriately to climb a mountain. Typical.

The higher I climb, the less tourists I encounter. Suddenly I start stumbling onto mossy mountaintop shrines with barely anyone in sight. The torii gates become sparser as I rise to the top. The stillness is staggering. Every leftover bit of sensory overload from Tokyo has now washed away, leaving me with just calm and wonder. I savor every moment of serenity before beginning my descent down the mountain through the thousands of brightly colored gates. 

GOLDEN PAVILION

After an invigorating morning at Fushimi Inari Taisha, I head to the Golden Pavilion, or Kinkaku-ji. I've witnessed a lot of picture perfect, postcard-worthy moments abroad, but this one probably wins. It hardly seems like real life.

As the name suggests, this temple is actually covered in real gold leaf. Not only is the temple itself breathtaking, but so are its immaculately landscaped gardens.

NANZENJI TEMPLE

The serene landscapes of the Nanzenji Temple fit my mood. Nestled at the base of Kyoto's Higashiyama mountains, this renowned Zen temple is surrounded by lush nature. The vast grounds are punctuated by a brick aqueduct that feels seemingly out of place, but ultimately adds to the temple's charisma.

Exhausted after my day's fill of temples and shrines, I spend a good amount of time here sitting, reflecting, and wanting to nap in a puddle of sunshine. It's the perfect way to polish off another magical day in Kyoto.

DAY THREE: DOWNTOWN KYOTO

I start my day fueling up at Arabica Cafe, perhaps the best coffee in all of Japan. I've found the coffee in Japan thus far to be pretty underwhelming, but this place is full of redemption.

I follow my tastebuds to Nishiki Market, where all other markets pale in comparison. Getting caught in the throngs of hungry visitors, I slowly make my way down the narrow shopping street for all five blocks. One thing I love about Japan is its covered arcades that are seemingly endless.

I occasionally stop to admire or investigate local delicacies that I've never before encountered. Though I can't indulge on many of the unique dishes, I still find persimmon, my favorite fruit!

My aimless wandering through the center takes me to Mr. Tom's hedgehog cafe, which at first sounds like a dream come true. Upon further contemplation, I do question the ethics of this - or any sort of animal activity tied to tourism - but hindsight is 20/20. Plus, there are a ton of rules about how to interact with the hedgehogs respectfully, and most of the hedgehogs are only allowed to hang out in "shifts" so that they aren't overstimulated. 

Yakasa Shrine

Nijo Castle

Japan is one of those places that gets under your skin, and Kyoto is no exception. As soon as science finds a cure for Celiac disease, I'm immediately booking a ticket back to Japan so I can go back and truly experience the cuisine, as well as explore the things I missed the first time around. Until then, I'll be dreaming of going back.

A Mediterranean Paradise in Malta

During my whirlwind two months of living in Stockholm in the spring of 2018, I spent my weekends bouncing through the Baltics and exploring the rest of Scandinavia. But given that spring in Sweden is equivalent to winter in Los Angeles, I was in desperate need of sunshine. On a whim, I booked spontaneous tickets to the cheapest and warmest corner of Europe Ryanair would fly to: Malta. Little did I know that this would become one of my new all-time favorite destinations.

VALLETTA

With its honey colored limestone houses, sapphire harbor, and cascades of bougainvillea crawling up towards emerald balconies, Valletta is a feast for the senses.

I chose to stay in Valletta as opposed to Malta's legendary beach towns for three reasons: convenience, ambiance, and serenity. Having only a few short days to explore, I wanted to be central to my desired destinations. I'm also a big fan of wandering around gritty cities, especially of the Mediterranean seaside variety. But above all, I was not in the mood for a fratty beach atmosphere teeming with hammered Brits. I wanted a quiet and tranquil escape, and Valletta checked all my boxes.

Valletta in bloom

Though there were plenty of sights to explore in Valletta, like the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens and St. John's Co-Cathedral, I spent most of my time aimlessly wandering with no particular destination in mind. Every corner I turned was more picturesque than the last, every hill surrendering even more sparkling vistas.

In typical fashion, I also spent a fair amount of time sipping Aperol Spritzes in bustling plazas, people watching, and soaking in the joys of solo travel. 

I didn't mind climbing the hilly streets of Valletta when they looked like this

If you avoid the tourist trap restaurants in the city center, Valletta is also an surprising culinary destination. Here are my favorite restaurants with gluten-free options in Valletta:

Noni

211 Republic Street

Trouncing all previous meals in Malta, Noni was my most memorable gastronomic experience in Valletta. With its rustic yet elevated cellar vibes and impressive wine list, this upscale eatery was an experience I'd like to relive over and over again. I indulged on the local sheep cheese salad with beets in mead vinaigrette, smoked pork belly with braised pigs cheeks, and creamed cabbage with bacon.

Guzé Bistro

22 Old Bakery Street

Serving up classic Maltese dishes with a gourmet twist, this bistro is situated in a 400-year old palace built by the Knights of Malta. This rustic cellar is an ideal place to try local delicacies such as rabbit, Malta's signature dish.

Trattoria Romana Zero Sei

75 Old Theatre Street

When you're so close to Italy, it's not a crime to suddenly crave Italian food. Bypass the tourist traps in central Valletta and head to this authentic joint run by sassy Romans. With its cozy interior and comfort food, you'll feel right at home here. Gluten-free pasta and other GF dishes abound.

Piadina Caffe

24 St. Lucia Street

Every morning I'd come here for a cappuccino (and sometimes a gluten-free baguette). Lounging on the hilly sidewalk and people watching as the city awoke was surely one of my favorite pastimes in Malta.

GOZO

No weekend in Malta would be complete without a day trip to Gozo. In typical Mediterranean fashion, it was a serious pain in the ass to get there. Also in typical Mediterranean fashion, the trek was 100% worth it.

The stops on my itinerary were Victoria (Gozo's capital, also known as Rabat), Dwejra, and Xlendi Bay. I contemplated renting a scooter, but I also wanted to wear a sundress. (Can you blame me? I had been freezing in Stockholm for the past two months, and seriously needed to defrost.) Fashion always trumps function because of who I am as a person, so I chose the sundress and took one of those "hop on, hop off" bus tours that I would normally scoff at.

I swallowed my pride and surprisingly enjoyed the freedom of the big red bus. Uninterested in the bus tour's mundane sightseeing facts, I plugged in my own music and enjoyed the scenery with the wind whipping through my hair, exploring as I pleased and answering to nobody.

The views of Gozo from Victoria's Citadel

The highlight of my day in Gozo was undoubtedly Xlendi Bay, with its crystal clear water an unbelievable shade of turquoise and quiet harbor glistening in the sun. Though the town itself was tiny, I dreamt of spending a few days here swimming, napping in the sun, and drinking spritzes on the sea.

My favorite places to visit have never been pristine or picture perfect. I'd rather travel somewhere colorful, crumbling, and full of character. From Havana to Hanoi, I've fallen hard for the cities that are gloriously gritty. Needless to say, Xlendi Bay was love at first sight.

I'm no Game of Thrones fan, but I still wanted to visit the arresting cliffs of Dwejra. Although the Instagram famous Azure Window had recently collapsed, the striking cliffs were still worth visiting! 

As a side note, how many Game of Thrones filming locations do I have to visit before I actually need to start watching the show? 

BLUE GROTTO

Malta may be a small country, but it is packed with natural beauty. Just a 30 minute bus ride from Valletta, the sapphire waters of the Blue Grotto are absolutely not to be missed. 

After being dropped off at the bus station, I leisurely walked down the hill towards the harbor. From there, I explored the best vistas and made my way into the small town to catch a boat tour. I use the term "boat" liberally here; it was actually more of a crowded dinghy. But the captain was kind enough to give me the best seat for photos, frequently stopping to let us soak up the Blue Grotto's splendor. 

Not a day goes by that I don't think of Malta's pure magic, and I'm aching to go back and spend more time there. Though the island is small, there's still so much to explore. Maybe I'll even pack an appropriate wardrobe and rent a scooter next time. (But then again, who are we kidding.)