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The Perfect Weekend in Imperfect Porto

Tuesday, February 2, 2016
Crumbling, colorful and crass, the beauty of Porto lies in its picturesque imperfections. A true diamond in the rough, this city is lived in and well loved.

Often overlooked by tourists in favor of Lisbon's notoriety, the hidden charms of Porto make it all the more enchanting. Its decrepit elegance asserts it as one of the most unique and unpretentious European destinations. Unabashedly effervescent, Porto is a small city with a big personality.

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While absorbed in Porto's electric reverie, it's impossible not to become infatuated with its brazen personality. Battered yet beautiful, unrefined yet exquisite, the city's contradictions make it peculiarly magnetizing. Its charisma is one of a kind, and should therefore be experienced accordingly.

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To soak in all of Porto's unpredictable charms, it's ideal to stay at least three nights. Be sure to balance out the sights with plenty of aimless wandering. Fully experiencing the magic of Porto means making time to get lost within its enchanting streets.

It's imperative to sightsee with your tastebuds here, and climbing the city's unapologetically steep hills will help burn off the calories from all of the delectable petiscos you are sure to devour. For a deeper look into Porto's history and cuisine, I highly recommend taking a tour with Taste Porto Food Tours.

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For backpackers and luxury travelers alike, Porto is sure to seduce the senses. It's only a matter of time until this underrated destination becomes one of Europe's most popular, so now is the time to fully enjoy its raw beauty and unadulterated authenticity.

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Are you ready to revel in Portugal's most mouthwatering dishes, memorable wines and breathtaking sights? You could easily spend a lifetime basking in Porto's simple pleasures, but a long weekend will happily suffice.

To maximize your time and experience the city's best restaurants, wineries, shops and monuments, allow me to share with you my complete weekend guide to Porto, Portugal. Saúde!

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EAT

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Mercado do Bolhão
Rua de Fernandes Tomás

Perhaps the most iconic open air market in Portugal, Mercado do Bolhão has been serving up fresh and local ingredients for over 100 years. Although the structure is in mild disrepair, this historic marketplace showcases a kaleidoscope of produce and a quality selection of fish and seafood. Many of Porto's finest restaurants and hotels primarily buy their ingredients here, for their products are widely regarded as the freshest.

Mercado do Bolhão
Sardines marinated in olive oil and chili pepper at Bolhão Wine House

Taberna Santo António
Rua das Virtudes 32

Dining at Taberna Santo António is like partaking in a large family dinner. Comfort food takes on a new meaning at this no-frills eatery packed with hungry locals, each devouring traditional home-cooked meals such as rich cozido á Portuguesa (meat, potatoes, rice, cabbage and carrots) and bacalhau á Braga (Braga-style codfish). If you're craving an authentic Portuguese experience, look no further than here.

Casa Santo António
Rua da Assunção 40

This darling and unpretentious tasca serves small Portuguese tapas, also known as petiscos, in an all-you-can-eat fashion until you tell the waiters to stop serving you. Multi-course meals can include delectable fresh goat cheese with honey and raisins, cured ham, marinated olives, curried carrots, black eyed peas salad, specialty cod dishes, spicy pork and grilled chouriço served atop a flaming grill. Don't miss the rich chocolate mousse that tastes delightfully akin to brownie batter.

Flor dos Congregados
Travessa dos Congregados 11

Over 150 years old, this iconic hole in the wall is famous for its "24-hour sandwich". Juicy pork belly is marinated in spices for 20 hours, and then the meat spends four hours cooking to perfection in a wood-fired oven. Combined with cured Portuguese ham and roasted tomatoes, this dish provides the perfect balance between sweet and savory.

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Cozido á Portuguesa at Taberna Santo António

Ó Maria
Rua de Conceição 106

This trendy kitchen is known for their unique mariazinhas, which are gourmet bite-sized sandwiches. Pair a craft cocktail with sliders made of alheira (smoked Portuguese sausage), goat cheese, spinach and caramelized onions, or boar loin with goat cheese, tomato confit, caramelized onions and pesto. Gluten-free bread is also available.

Café Progresso
Rua Actor João Guedes 5

Open since 1899, Café Progresso asserts itself as Porto's oldest café. Head to this cozy coffee shop for a leisurely brunch or a quick caffeine jolt. For less than 6€, you can fuel up on a traditional breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast or fresh fruit salad, coffee and orange juice.

DRINK

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Taylor's
Rua do Choupelo 250, Vila Nova de Gaia

Across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia lies Taylor's, one of Porto's oldest and most celebrated wineries. For a 7€ tour and tasting, you can try their delectable white, tawny and ruby Port wines. Not only does the tour cover the basics of Port wine, but it also delves into the history and culture of Portuguese winemaking. However, the best part of the tour is sipping on the sweet liquid gold that helped put Porto on the map. 

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Bolhão Wine House
Mercado do Bolhão, Loja 9

A hidden gem in the historic Mercado do Bolhão, Bolhão Wine House offers three Port wine tastings for 7€ (Mondays through Saturdays). This up-and-coming wine bar is run in the owner's grandmother's old flower shop, and aims to utilize products from other stalls in the market so that everyone can benefit from their success. Aside from exquisite local wines, you can also purchase gourmet snacks and artisan souvenirs.

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Pass the Port, please!

Prova
Rua de Ferreira Borges 86

This quaint wine bar serves an unparalleled selection of quality wines, thanks to top-notch sommelier Diogo. Highlighting wines from every region of the country, it's hard not to leave with a newfound appreciate for Portuguese vinho. My favorite pick was the 2007 Hereditas from the Alentejo region, which was delightfully full bodied and spicy.

SHOP

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Livraria Lello & Irmão
Rua das Carmelitas 144

Did you know that JK Rowling began writing the first chapters Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone while she was teaching English in Porto? Rumor has it that the Hogwarts uniforms were even inspired by the uniforms of University of Porto students. After visiting this whimsical bookshop, it's no surprise that this locale was also a possible inspiration to Rowling. Gliding up and down the shop's staircases makes you feel as if you're wandering through the halls of Hogwarts. It costs 3€ to enter, but your ticket acts as a voucher if you choose to later make a purchase.

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A Vida Portuguesa
Galeria de Paris 20

This gift shop nestled just around the corner from Livraria Lello is known for its colorful assortment of authentic "made in Portugal" souvenirs. Here you can pick up local treats such as fragrant soaps, colorful tiles, artisan kitchen supplies and unique postcards. They also offer a tasty variety of Portuguese delicacies, which unsurprisingly make for the best gifts for friends back home.

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EXPLORE

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Sunrise from the Dom Luís I Bridge

Dom Luís I Bridge

If this double-decker metallic bridge looming over the Douro River reminds you of the Eiffel Tower, you are definitely onto something. This impressive structure connecting Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia was built in 1886 by Téophile Seyrig, one of Gustave Eiffel's protégés. While the towering bridge is a magnificent feat within itself, its upper deck also boasts some of the most spectacular views of the city.

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Miradouro da Vitória

Though seemingly derelict, this hidden lookout offers some of the most sublime panoramas of Porto, Vila Nova de Gaia and the Douro River. Stop by around golden hour to truly capture the city's magic.

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Golden hour views at Miradouro da Vitória

Sé Cathedral

This Romanesque cathedral is not only stunning in its own right, but it also offers some of the most striking vistas of the city. Peek inside for a quick dose of culture, or simply take in the remarkable views of Porto from above. 

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Porto's Sé Cathedral

Ribeira Neighborhood

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Porto's historic center is brimming with dilapidated charm and unabashed charisma. The darling medieval streets flaunt crumbling tiles, bold details and bright pops of color. Wander through the twisting alleys, gaze up at the locals perched on their balconies, and soak in the neighborhood's picturesque imperfections.

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Rustic charm in the Ribeira

São Bento Railway Station

Perhaps the crown jewel of all train stations, the interior of São Bento is covered in elegant azulejos that depict the history of Portugal. Over 20,000 traditional blue and white tiles adorn the walls of the station, creating one of the most arresting sights in the city.

ESCAPE

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Matosinhos

Dip your toes in the ocean and eat some of the region's best seafood in this seaside town just 15 minutes from downtown Porto. With surfing schools on the beach and vast stretches of sand to soak up the sun, Matosinhos is the ideal oceanside escape.

When hunger strikes, head to O Gaveto (Rua Roberto Ivens 826) for fresh seafood, traditional caldo verde (soup with kale, potatoes, chouriço and olive oil) and invigorating vinho verde (young Portuguese wine). Don't miss out on their heavenly clams served in a fresh olive oil, garlic, cilantro and white wine sauce.

To get to Matosinhos from downtown Porto, take bus 500 from Praça da Liberdade. With a single ticket costing only 1.50€, the ride boasts sublime views of the coast. Or, take the blue metro line to the Matosinhos Sul stop, which costs 1.50€ for a single ticket.

The ultimate weekend guide to Porto | Adelante


Have you ever been to Porto?
What other recommendations would you add?


2016 Travel Bucket List

Tuesday, January 26, 2016
2016 Travel Bucket List | Adelante

Is it just me, or did the new year sneak up on us? It's hard to believe that February is just around the corner. But with a new year comes new adventures, and I have a pretty good feeling about 2016! While I hit most of the cities on my 2015 travel bucket list, there are still plenty of places in Europe (and beyond!) that I absolutely must see before moving back to the States.

Seeing as this will be my last year living in Spain, nailing down my 2016 travel plans has been a rather daunting task. The old cliché of "so much to see, so little time" has never rang so true. I'm starting to feel like I'm racing against the clock (... and my bank account is suffering accordingly). But I'm determined to make the most out of my last six months abroad, so here's what's on the calendar for my 2016 farewell tour!


Interlaken, Switzerland

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After my first skydive in July for my 25th birthday, I knew I'd be hooked. I dragged my mom along with me (because she's not a regular mom, she's a cool mom), and afterwards she feverishly insisted, "I certainly won't be doing that again!" I could only respond with a smirk, because I knew it wouldn't be long until I jumped out of a plane again. But I suppose I was mistaken, because this time I'll be jumping out of a helicopter!


Tel Aviv, Israel

photo via

One of the best parts about being a teacher is having spring break, so this March I'll be heading east to visit one of my favorite sorority sisters in Tel Aviv. I'll arrive just in time to celebrate Purim, a festival similar to Halloween that commemorates Queen Esther. Safety permitting, I'm hoping to take a few day trips such as Jerusalem and...


Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

I've dreamt of seeing these ruins for years, and drooling over Jessica's stunning photos only intensified my wanderlust! Seeing Petra in person would be an absolute dream come true, so here's hoping a quick jaunt from Israel is safe and feasible!


Cádiz, Spain

Cádiz, Spain | 2016 Travel Plans
Cádiz, 2010

It's been six years since my disastrous study abroad experience in Cádiz, and I've spent the past two and a half years postponing my return. Before I leave Spain for good, I need a redemption trip. While my semester abroad in Cádiz was less than ideal, its trials and tribulations pushed me to grow and challenge myself in new ways. While living  there wasn't necessarily a good fit for me, it's still a gorgeous city worth visiting. I know returning will bring back a lot of mixed emotions, but at this point I feel ready to face those demons and fully embrace everything wonderful about this charming southern town (... especially the beaches!).


Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm, Sweden photo via

My best friend Meghan is coming to visit me in May (hooray!!!), and while she's on this side of the pond, we plan on popping over to Sweden to visit her cousin. I've been dying to get back to Scandinavia since I fell in love with Copenhagen last spring, so I can't wait to see what Stockholm has to offer!


Croatia

photo via

Before moving to Madrid, I promised myself that I'd make it to Croatia. Twenty-two year old Courtney dreamt of the seemingly endless champagne showers of Yacht Week, but twenty-five year old Courtney knows that eight days on a boat may cause an accidental Dramamine overdose. Land, ho! Though my lack of sea legs prompts me to forgo the party boat experience, my mainland itinerary will hopefully be balanced out with plenty of island hopping.


Paris, France

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Paris, 2013

I can't think of a better way to conclude my time abroad than by revisiting the city I love the most (shhh, cover your ears, Madrid). Paris was the first city I ever truly fell in love with, and despite countless visits and a magical study abroad stint, I still can't get enough. This June, I plan on getting in a large dose of French goodness before I go home and have to wait another five years until I can afford it again. (Just kidding... I hope. Please be good to me, grad school loan gods.)


Reykjavík, Iceland

Reykjavík, Iceland | 2016 Travel Plans
photo via

The cheapest one way ticket home is through Iceland, which is especially convenient considering Iceland Air offers a free stopover for up to seven nights! Since Iceland has been on my bucket list for years, my last European hoorah will include a few days in Reykjavík on my way back to Seattle.


A bittersweet return to Seattle

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Home sweet home

As ludicrous as it sounds to say out loud, I think I'm finally ready to move back to Seattle. It's time for me to take the next step in my career, I have absolutely no savings and I'm ready to live closer to my family. Leaving Madrid will surely break my heart (alright, more like shatter it to pieces), and I expect my transition back into reality to be particularly gruesome, but I still feel called to come back home and take the next step - whatever that may be. Leaving Seattle after Christmas break was unusually tough this time around. My week at home reminded me of how solid my community is, and I feel a renewed gratefulness for my friends who still make me feel as if no time has passed.

I could very well come home, feel miserable, panic and buy a one-way ticket back to Spain... but I think I have a pretty good feeling about this next move.

So, to sum up the next step in the words of the late David Bowie,

"I don't know where I'm going from here, but I promise it won't be boring."

Cheers to an epic 2016, my friends!


What are your 2016 travel plans?
Will you be visiting any of the same destinations?


2015 Travel Highlights

Tuesday, December 29, 2015
Happy New Year, friends! It's hard to believe that 2016 is already upon us, and a part of me is sad to see 2015 go. Through all of the memories and misadventures, twenty-fifteen has been an incredible year of travel. Last year took me all over Europe, while this year allowed me to explore more of Spain. I've savored some of the most mouthwatering meals of my life, shared laughs with new friends on the road, showed old friends around my home in Madrid, and fallen deeper in love with the Spanish culture (and cuisine!).

Each place I visited captured my heart in a unique way. Seven countries, 25 cities and countless adventures later, it's safe to say that this year has been one of my best yet. Though it's impossible to pick favorites, here are some of my best travel memories of 2015!

Barcelona, Spain | 2015 Travel Highlights
Giving Barcelona a second chance

Valencia, Spain | 2015 Travel Highlights
Getting a taste of Valencia

Costa Adeje, Spain | 2015 Travel Highlights
Canary Island hopping in Puerto de la CruzCosta Adeje and Las Palmas

Canarian papas arrugadas | 2015 Travel Highlights
Living off papas arrugadas con mojo in the Canary Islands 

Santiago de Compostela, Spain | 2015 Travel Highlights
Getting drenched in Galicia

Lloret de Mar, Spain | 2015 Travel Highlights
Surviving my first TBEX conference in Costa Brava

Copenhagen, Denmark | 2015 Travel Highlights
Learning to love solo travel in Copenhagen

Pintxos in San Sebastián | 2015 Travel Highlights
Stuffing my face with gluten-free pintxos in San Sebastián


Mallorca, Spain | 2015 Travel Highlights
Being beach bums with my mom in Palma de Mallorca

Skydive Snohomish | 2015 Travel Highlights
Skydiving in Seattle for my 25th birthday

Porto, Portugal | 2015 Travel Highlights
Falling head over heels for Porto

Florence, Italy | 2015 Travel Highlights
Spending Thanksgiving weekend devouring pizza in Florence

Strasbourg, France | 2015 Travel Highlights
Enjoying Christmas markets and family time in Strasbourg and Heidelberg


Today I'm off to Seattle to ring in the new year with friends and family, and I couldn't be more excited to be home again. After a week in Washington, I'll be headed back to Madrid to finish my third (and final) year of teaching English in Spain. But I'll be going out with a bang, so stay tuned to see what adventures are in store for the new year! Bring it on, 2016!


Cheers to a 2016 that's just as epic!
What are your favorite travel memories from 2015?