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48 Hours in Madrid

Tuesday, July 21, 2015
Though Barcelona often seems to outshine the capital with its flashy sights and attractions, no trip to Spain is complete without visiting the vibrant city of Madrid. Contributing its own unique flavor to the cultural amalgam of modern day Spain, Madrid’s colorful personality abounds with picturesque sights, captivating history and exceptional gastronomy.

Located in the heart of Spain, Madrid not only gives easy access to Seville, Granada, Barcelona and other Spanish cities well worth visiting, but it's also the perfect stepping stone for a more extensive Eurotrip. With countless things to do and see in the inviting Spanish capital, here's how to spend 48 hours in Madrid.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante


DAY ONE:

Morning

Buenos días! Start your first morning in the bustling Puerta del Sol, the heart of the city and the geographic center of Spain. Here you can find Madrid's most famous bakery, La Mallorquina. Edge your way through the crowd of Spanish abuelas picking up their favorite sweets and treat yourself to a savory chocolate napolitana from this timeless pastry shop.

Take in the energy of Puerta del Sol, admiring the impressive facades and giant Tío Pepe billboard watching over the city. Cross the street towards the old post office to find the Km 0 plaque, the origin of all major freeways in Spain.

Next, head towards Plaza Mayor. While nowadays Plaza Mayor is often swarming with tourists, this lively square still retains some of its old world charm. This historic epicenter with an enthralling (and sometimes bloody) past is now brimming with bursts of color, boisterous street performers and curious people-watchers. While the overpriced restaurants are to be avoided at all costs, the beauty of Plaza Mayor is nevertheless undeniable.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
Plaza Mayor

Venture towards the Royal Palace, passing by Plaza de la Villa and stopping inside the Almudena Cathedral. The bright pops of color and dazzling geometric shapes on the cathedral's ceiling provide for a delightful contrast from most other churches in Spain. 

Right next door to the Almudena Cathedral you will find the Royal Palace, which boasts an ornate and decadent interior that could almost rival Versailles. Built in 1736 by the Bourbons, Madrid's Palacio Real is the oldest functioning palace in the world. Take a short tour of this regal estate to fully appreciate its grandeur.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
Madrid's Palacio Real

Afternoon

Next, make your way to Mercado de San Miguel for a delectable feast of tapas. Admire the market's elegant architecture as you wander through the many stalls of traditional Spanish treats. Indulge on delicacies such as jamón ibérico de bellota, Campo Real olives, an assortment of savory Spanish cheeses, Marcona almonds and fresh seafood, and wash it down with a glass of wine or a caña (a small beer).

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
Jamón ibérico at Mercado de San Miguel

After that, head to Parque del Buen Retiro, Madrid's answer to Central Park. As you stroll around this picturesque park, explore the Palacio de Cristal, take a ride on a paddle boat in the park’s small manmade lake, or grab a spot at one of the outdoor cafés to people watch as you enjoy a tinto de verano (a mix of red wine and lemon Fanta, which is what the locals drink in lieu of sangria).

Evening

There's nothing more madrileño than a good rooftop bar. Just before sunset, head to La Azotea at the Círculo de Bellas Artes for some of the most sublime views of the city. Admire the breathtaking scenery as you sip a refreshing libation, or simply take in the spectacular views. Stick around after sunset to see the city sparkle at night.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
The views from Círculo de Bellas Artes

For dinner, make your way to La Latina for some tapas at Juana la Loca, home to the city’s best slice of tortilla de patatas – a traditional omelet made with thinly sliced potatoes and onions. Be sure to also try their mouthwatering huevos rotos – fried eggs atop French fries and sprinkled with thin slices of jamón ibérico.

Seeing as Spaniards are notorious night owls, you'll notice the streets here are still buzzing after dark. You can join the native party animals and stay out until the sun rises, or save the fiesta for Day Two after you've conquered the rest of the city.


DAY TWO:

Morning

Though breakfast may not be the biggest meal of the day here in Spain, your tastebuds will surely delight in starting your morning with a creamy café con leche and pan con tomate (toast with freshly grated tomato and olive oil) from Toma Café in Madrid's hipster neighborhood of Malasaña. Home to the best coffee in the city, this charming café is worth getting off the beaten path for. After fueling up, explore the trendy boutiques and cozy vintage shops of Malasaña before making your way towards Plaza de España.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
Neighborhood charm in Malasaña

Wander through Plaza de España as you head to the Royal Palace, stopping in the Jardines de Sabatini. Tucked just behind the Palacio Real, these gardens are the most luxurious place to admire the palace's regal facade. Next, venture to Plaza de Oriente for more impressive gardens, statues and peaceful surroundings.

Afternoon

Around noon or one o'clock, especially on a Sunday, you can find many locals partaking in la hora de vermut, or "the hour of vermouth" over pre-lunch appetizers. As the capital's chosen aperitif, this sweet drink has become thoroughly engrained into madrileño culture. Grab your pre-lunch vermouth at Taberna Real, which used to be a residence for people who worked at the Royal Palace.

After whetting your appetite with this smooth aperitif, sate your hunger with an afternoon of tapas crawling in La Latina. Tapas crawling, or going from bar to bar in search of the best small dishes to share with friends, is one of Spain's most revered traditions. Take a stroll down Calle de la Cava Baja, a charming medieval street overflowing with tapas bars and taverns from end to end. Be sure to stop by Taberna La Concha and Taberna Los Huevos de Lucio, among many others.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
Treat yourself to a tasty slice of tortilla de patatas

Following lunch, copy the locals and take a midday siesta, or power through your food coma and continue conquering the capital.

If you're an art lover, you can't miss Madrid's array of world class museums. Check out the Museo del Prado for classic Spanish masterpieces by Goya and Velázquez, or the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía for top notch modern art such as Picasso's Guernica. The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum showcases a wide variety of artists and artistic styles, while the up-and-coming Caixa Forum offers bold temporary exhibits and modern art collections.

Not a huge fan of museums? Pop over to Gran Vía, often referred to as the "Spanish Broadway". This sprawling street is home to many upscale hotels, nightclubs, theaters and most importantly, some of the city's best shopping. Amongst the most famous Spanish stores such as Zara and MANGO, this congested avenue flaunts eye-catching examples of early twentieth-century architecture.

Evening

Considering Madrid is one of Europe's sunniest capitals, madrileños love an excuse to get out in the fresh air and enjoy their libations with a view. Follow the locals' lead and discover the many lively rooftop bars that Madrid has to offer. For some of the best views, try Gymage in Malasaña, Hotel Roommate Óscar in Chueca, Ático de las Letras right off Gran Vía, or The Hat near Plaza Mayor.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
Rooftop views from The Hat

Before preparing yourself for a night on the town, treat yourself to dinner at one of the city's trendiest tapas bars, Lateral. Offering several locations scattered throughout the capital, Lateral boasts a delectably modern take on gourmet tapas. If you're in the mood for something different, check out some of the other best places to eat in Madrid.

Late Night

Did you know that Madrid has the highest number of bars per square meter in Europe? With so many vibrant options, it’s no surprise that the nightlife here is unparalleled. Spaniards tend to stay out until sunrise, so be sure to caffeinate accordingly!

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante
¡Salud!

Many tourists and study abroad students flock to Kapital, Madrid’s famous seven story night club with a different floor for every musical genre. If you're looking for something more posh, head to Barrio Salamanca for more upscale clubs such as Gabana. If nightclubs aren’t your thing, forgo the discotecas and check out the bars on Calle Pez in hipster Malasaña.

Once the sun rises, you’ll surely be craving an early morning snack. Feast upon the city’s best churros con chocolate at Chocolatería de San Gines, one of Madrid’s most iconic eateries. Conveniently open all night long, San Gines is the perfect spot to refuel or simply soak up the night's gin and tonics.

48 Hours in Madrid | Adelante

After two days of getting to know Madrid's dynamic personality, hopefully you've fallen in love with the city and tasted an authentic flavor of Spain.

If you're lucky enough to have more than just 48 hours in Spain's capital, be sure to check out some of the best day trips from Madrid.


Have you ever been to Madrid?
What would you add to this itinerary?


48 Hours in Madrid - an expat's guide to the best sights, restaurants & rooftop bars


Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

Friday, July 17, 2015
Pretty pastel buildings line cobblestone streets as cascades of bougainvillea adorn colonial churches. Tropical birds sing in the island breeze, while the scent of spicy mojo picón wafts through bustling restaurants during lunch hour.

In one direction lies the Atlantic, and in the other lies a lush volcanic landscape begging to be explored. A juxtaposition of pristine and well-worn, of old world charm and modern Spanish flair, the inviting old town of Las Palmas, Gran Canaria offers a glimpse into the beating heart of the Canary Islands.

Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

After exploring Puerto de la Cruz and Costa Adeje in Tenerife, we hopped a ferry to our next and last stop in the Canary Islands: Vegueta, the charming old town of Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. Compared to Tenerife, the old town of Las Palmas was not swarming with hordes of tourists (and subsequent tourist traps). We were therefore able to discover a more authentic side to the Canaries, and dare I say, an even more delicious side.

Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

With its vibrant colors and eye-catching colonial architecture, we quickly fell for Las Palmas. Using our adorable Airbnb as a home base, we leisurely wandered through Vegueta by day, and ate our weight in papas arrugadas drenched in mojo picón by night. Here we found a mecca of eateries on Calle Mendizábal, Vegueta's main foodie drag, including La Champiñoneria and La Hierba Luisa.

Though we made sure to pop into the Columbus Museum and the Santa Ana Cathedral, our sightseeing mostly consisted of aimless walks through the colorful streets, admiring the architecture and snapping photos of every darling detail.

Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

Wanting to discover more of the island's volcanic landscape, we ventured to La Caldera de Bandama for what promised to be a beautiful hike. We hiked down to the bottom of the volcanic crater, enamored by the lush vegetation and breathtaking views. The steep climb back up nearly killed me, but I was rewarded at the top with a picnic and sublime views of the crater. 

Though growing up in the Pacific Northwest has spoiled me with countless gorgeous hikes, Gran Canaria's Caldera de Bandama was easily one of the most memorable hikes I've ever done.

Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

That evening, we quickly consumed all of the the calories we had burnt off at La Caldera de Bandama with a feast of tapas and volcanic red wine at Mercado del Puerto. Although this modern market lies on the opposite side of town as Vegueta, it's well worth the trek. Its polished stalls offer a plethora of Canarian specialties, seafood dishes, traditional tapas and Spanish staples. 

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While I wish it had been warm enough to venture to Gran Canaria's famed beaches and surreal sand dunes, I hope my newfound love for the Canary Islands will bring me back there again someday. Between the stunning landscapes, friendly locals and mouthwatering cuisine, I'll always have an excuse to return to Las Palmas.


My Las Palmas Picks:

Favorite Day Trip: Hiking in La Caldera de Bandama
Best Restaurants: La Champiñoneria, To Lo Dije Perez, La Hierba Luisa
Must Try Dishes: Papas arrugadas con mojo picón, grilled Canarian cheese
Favorite Activity: Exploring the old town of Vegueta
Best Museum: Casa de Colón


Colonial Charm in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria


Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu

Monday, June 15, 2015
Thanks to the revolutionary success of Noma and a recent nationwide focus on locally grown goods, Denmark is taking global gastronomy by storm. At the heart of this gastronomic metamorphosis is Copenhagen, a capital taking great strides to redefine Nordic cuisine.

On this bold quest to create their culinary identity, Denmark is ultimately fixated on what is grown on their own land, therefore pursuing complete sustainability. In turn, they've become the star of the new Nordic food revolution. Though Noma may have just lost its title of best restaurant in the world, its legacy has produced a ripple effect in all of Scandinavia.

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu

In other words, there are some big things going on up north, and they're all exceptionally delicious.

Passionate about sharing Scandinavia's delectable successes, FoodTours.eu showcases the best of Nordic fare on their culinary walking tours. After their 4 hour Culinary Experience Tour in Copenhagen, I left with a deeper knowledge and appreciation for Danish cuisine and history - and not to mention, a delightfully full belly!

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu

Our first stop on the tour was the slick and shiny Torvehallerne Market, a foodie mecca akin to Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel and San Francisco's Ferry Building Marketplace. We started off with some local apple wine and three different Danish cheeses, the show stealer being the Høgelund blue cheese which effortlessly melted in my mouth with every bite. 

Next, we tried mustard, strawberry jam, licorice, caramel and rhubarb juice from the Danish island of Bornholm. We washed it down with a fiery shot of Snaps, which is known in Scandinavia as a shot of hard liquor that is typically enjoyed alongside a meal. Much stronger than the Schnapps I enjoyed in my college days, this traditional Nordic libation positively jolted me awake. Although my days of taking shots before noon have long since passed (I'm looking at you, Greek Week), I couldn't say no to the opportunity to cheers and shout Skål! with my fellow foodies.

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
An assortment of Danish cheeses
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Local apple wine
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Mustard, jam, licorice, caramel and rhubarb juice from the island of Bornholm

Buzzing from the burn of the Snaps, we headed towards the University of Copenhagen's lush botanical gardens, where we taste tested a couple of local honeys. The sweet, floral flavors are still etched in my mind as some of the best honey I've ever tried. (In hindsight, I'm kicking myself for not bringing a jar home with me!)


Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Copenhagen's Botanical Gardens
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu

Afterwards, we headed to my favorite stop of the tour: Aamanns Deli for traditional Danish smørrebrød, or open faced sandwiches. These little slices of heaven were arguably the best thing I ate in Copenhagen. Our tour guide was kind enough to bring gluten-free bread for me, so I got to indulge on the same delicacies as the other non-Celiacs in our group. 

Out of the four open faced sandwiches we devoured, the two superstars were the chicken salad smørrebrød with mustard, honey, celery, apple, crispy chicken skin and cress, as well as the beef smørrebrød with slices of grilled sirloin, chunky remoulade, horseradish, chervil and potato chips. That said, each sandwich we tried undoubtedly delighted my tastebuds.

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Mouthwatering smørrebrød from Aamanns
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Chicken salad with mustard, honey, celery, apple, crispy chicken skin and cress
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Slices of grilled sirloin with chunky remoulade, horseradish, chervil and potato chips

After the smørrebrød from Aamanns completely revolutionized my idea of a sandwich, we strolled through Nørrebro towards our next destination, a brewery housed in an old metal factory. Danes are notorious for loving their beer, and this brewhouse is known for being one of the most eco-friendly breweries in town. Since no gluten-free beers were offered here, I sipped on a refreshing elderflower juice and took in the unique surroundings. 

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu

Denmark is also well-known for its hot dogs, so naturally we had to try these famed treats next. We ventured to an organic hot dog stand near the Rundetårn, where I feasted upon an organic goat sausage with mashed potatoes and parsnips, mustard, ketchup and beetroots. Though I'm not usually a big hot dog fan, this one took my tastebuds by surprise. My favorite additions were the beets and parsnips, which added a memorable touch to an otherwise classic dish. 

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
An organic goat sausage with mashed potatoes and parsnips, mustard, ketchup and beetroots

Before our food comas fully hit, we polished off our culinary pilgrimage with some much needed dessert. We made our way towards an old candy factory founded in 1891, where we tested some of their most popular sweets. Not only was the candy divine, but the antiquated shop also made me feel as if I were stepping back in time. 

We eventually headed back to Torvehallerne Market for some flødeboller, a traditional chocolate covered marshmallow treat. The fluffy egg whites in the middle were as light as air, and the thin layer of marzipan at the bottom rounded out the creamy texture. It is said that the average Dane eats about 45 of these per year, and I really can't blame them!

Eating My Way Through Copenhagen with FoodTours.Eu
An old candy factory in the heart of Copenhagen, home to some seriously tasty sweets

FoodTours.eu offers culinary walking tours in Copenhagen, Olso and Stockholm, each exploring the unique tastes of Scandinavian cuisine. The Copenhagen Culinary Experience Tour runs at 10:00 am every day except Sunday. The tour lasts about four hours and includes at least 8 different tastings. I genuinely recommend this tour to all food lovers and hungry travelers who are curious about Nordic cuisine!

FoodTours.eu graciously invited me on their Copenhagen Culinary Experience Tour, but as always, all opinions expressed are my own.


Have you ever tried Nordic cuisine?
Which city would you like to taste your way through next?


Exploring Copenhagen's cuisine and history with FoodTours.eu