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Discovering Catalan Cuisine with Devour Barcelona

Thursday, April 16, 2015

As an ardent lover of Spanish gastronomy, I've spent the past year and a half following my tastebuds through Madrid and the rest of Spain searching for the perfect bite. This hunger for Spanish culture and cuisine led me to work as a social media intern for Madrid Food Tour for six months this past year, from which I was able to discover even more about this country's culinary gems.

However, not too long ago I realized that there was a large, gaping hole in my knowledge: I knew practically nothing about Catalonia. Catalan cuisine is one of the superstars of Spanish food, so how had I been living in the dark for so long? 

On my first trip to Catalonia's capital five years ago, I missed out on most traditional dishes because I didn't know what to look for. Because I was overwhelmed by the options and too lazy to do my research, my first culinary experience in Barcelona was kind of an epic fail. That's why I made it a goal to rediscover Barcelona as a foodie this year.

When I decided to make my way back up to Catalonia in March, I turned to Devour Barcelona Food Tours to give me an introduction to Catalan cuisine

An omelette made with botifarra, a traditional Catalan sausage

We started our morning on the bustling Passeig de Gràcia, making our way towards the quaint neighborhood of Vila de GràciaBarcelona's very own hidden village. Tucked away from the chaos of the big city, the village of Gràcia still retains its authentic small town charm. Amongst the local shops and sunny plazas, one can find dozens of family run eateries serving quality, homemade food. 

Exploring Gràcia's Mercat de l'Abaceria Central
A delightful olive, artichoke and sundried tomato skewer at the market
Sampling various Spanish and Catalan cheeses with membrillo, a heavenly quince jelly
It's not a true Spanish market unless there's lots of jamón!

Fueled by the delectable treats from our first stop, including cava - Spain's signature sparkling wine that is mostly produced in Catalonia - we ventured into Gràcia's neighborhood market. We wandered through the colorful stalls, stopping at a local olive stand and cheese vendor for some decadent snacks. 

Upon entering the market, it became clear to me that we were no longer in the touristic hub of Barcelona. Unlike Barcelona's famous Boqueria market, there was not a single tourist or selfie stick in sight at Gràcia's Mercat de l'Abaceria Central. In this quiet neighborhood just beyond the sprawling Eixample, we had stumbled upon Barcelona's best kept secret.

Trying a selection of olive oils in a neighborhood shop
Learning how to make pa amb tomàquet, a typical breakfast or snack in Catalonia
The best patatas bravas I've ever had at l'Anxoveta

As we headed towards our next few stops, our vivacious guide Renee peppered our tour with colorful stories and anecdotes about Gràcia, giving us a better understanding of Catalan customs and culture. We then visited a local olive oil shop for a sit-down tasting, where we learned all about the differences between various Spanish olive oils. I found this to be particularly fascinating, since I hardly knew anything about Spain's olive oil industry!

Next, we headed to my favorite stop of the tour: l'Anxoveta. While most guests sampled a traditional Catalan bomba, a fried potato and minced meat croquette, I feasted upon the best patatas bravas of my life. We also learned how to make pan con tomate - or pa amb tomàquet in Catalan - a traditional Spanish breakfast comprised of toast, tomato, olive oil, salt and garlic. The gluten free bread that l'Anxoveta provided me tasted like the real deal, and the patatas bravas were so spicy and divine that I went back later that weekend for a second serving.

Pickled anchovies and fuet, a Catalan cured sausage, at a traditional neighborhood bodega

Spending a day with Devour Barcelona was the perfect way to further my knowledge of Spanish gastronomy, learn more about Barcelona's culture and history, and sample the best of Catalan cuisine. Not to mention, they did a great job of accommodating my gluten free needs and providing me with delicious alternatives. I never felt like I was missing out! Thanks to our enthusiastic guide and the tasty array of traditional dishes we got to try, I feel like I got to experience an authentic taste of Barcelona.

A tapa of escalivada, a classic Catalan dish made of grilled vegetables
A mini crema catalana, a dessert similar to crème brûlée with hints of orange and cinnamon

The Gràcia Neighborhood Food Tour runs every Tuesday-Saturday morning starting at 10:00 am. The tour lasts several hours and includes at least 12 different tastings. I highly recommend this tour to all foodies and hungry travelers who are curious about Spanish and Catalan cuisine!

I was graciously invited on this tour as a Devour Spain intern, however, all opinions expressed are my own.

As a Celiac, I took this tour at my own risk. While Devour Barcelona can make substitutions to accommodate a gluten free diet, they are not perfectly suitable for people with Celiac Disease due to risk of cross contamination. If you avoid gluten and are interested in taking this tour, please get in touch with Devour Barcelona by email to discuss Celiac/gluten free options.


Have you ever been on a food tour?
Which city would you like to taste your way through next?

Charmed by Valencia

Saturday, April 11, 2015
You've done it again, Spain.


Valencia had been on my Spain Bucket List for over a year, so once I finally booked my weekend getaway to the east coast of Spain, I had developed some pretty high expectations. 

So in this delightfully diverse country with hidden gems in every corner, do you think I was disappointed?

Of course not.


First, let's talk about the cuisine. The region of Valencia is home to Spain's most famous dish, paella. This tasty concoction of rice, vegetables, meat, seafood and saffron can be absolutely heavenly when done right. Unfortunately, bad paella can be found near tourist traps far and wide throughout Spain. (Rule of thumb: if there's a picture of paella in the restaurant's window, don't eat there.) 

However, if you do your research, Valencia can be a paella lover's dream. We indulged on the vegetable paella at La Pepica, an old haunt of Hemingway's. At this traditional, airy restaurant by the sea, I could almost picture good ol' Ernest himself declaring what a fine place it was. We enjoyed our exquisite pan of paella alongside some mussels and local white wine, rendering it the perfect meal.


And what better way to wash down some savory paella than with a pitcher of Agua de Valencia? A blend of freshly squeezed orange juice, Cava (Spain's version of champagne) vodka and gin, this upgraded mimosa just might be my new favorite cocktail.

Not to mention, there's also the Mercat Central de Valencia, which unquestionably makes my list of all-time favorite food markets in Europe.


I timed my trip to coincide with the first weekend of Valencia's Las Fallas festival, which is held every year from March 15th - 19th. Appropriately named "the fires", Las Fallas is a colorful fiesta filled with larger than life paper mâché statues that mock political and cultural issues, gunpowder shows in the middle of the day, and a lifetime's worth of pyrotechnics. On the last night of the festival, the city is set ablaze as the satirical paper mâché figures called ninots (meaning "puppets" or "dolls") are burnt to the ground. 


Despite only being in Valencia for a full day and a half, I found the city to be completely enchanting. I'm already aching to go back and spend more time exploring the city. (And drink more Agua de Valencia, obviously.) There are still so many things that I have yet to discover, like the intriguing City of Arts and Sciences and the gorgeous, vast beaches. Moreover, I'd love to witness the Nit del Foc, the last night of Las Fallas festival where all of the ninots are set on fire.

With so many excuses to spend more time in Valencia, I sincerely hope I get the chance to go back soon and get to know this picturesque city better.


My Valencia Picks:
Where to Get Your Paella Fix: La Pepica
Must-Try Dishes: Paella, buñuelos de calabaza (pumpkin fritters), horchata, Agua de Valencia
Can't Miss Sights: Mercat Central de Valencia, City of Arts and Sciences, Catedral de Valencia
When to Go: March 15th - 19th for Las Fallas festival
Best Agua de Valencia: Café de las Horas

A Taste of Valencia's Mercat Central

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Amidst the busting bars and cafés of Valencia's old town lies the Mercat Central de Valencia, one of Europe's oldest running markets. Designed in 1914 and opened in 1928, this impressive Modernist structure covers more than 8,000 square meters and is home to about 400 vendors. Here you can find a colorful labyrinth of stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, seafood, spices, olives, nuts and other treats to hungry locals.


Though Valencia's Central Market is one of the city's main tourist attractions, the quality of the market's goods has not been sacrificed. The Mercat Central de Valencia is not swarming with tourists compared to Barcelona's La Boqueria or Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel, so you can still spot locals picking out the freshest produce or asking their favorite butcher for the finest cuts of the day.


Bathed in natural light, the market's eye-catching structure is embellished with colorful stained glass windows, ceramics and mosaics. The striking interior almost distracts you from the parade of edible eye-candy inside the market. Kaleidoscopes of fruit adorn every aisle, while succulent vegetables and pungent cheeses invite you to feast upon the market's every delight.


The Mercat Central abounds with some of Spain's finest delicacies, such as jamón ibérico, chorizo, salchichón, olive oil, and regional vegetable varieties. Valencia is also home to the country's best paella (it's where the famous dish originated!), so it's no surprise that this market is one of the freshest spots to pick up some paella fixings.


One of the most revered local delicacies is horchata, a typical beverage that's especially popular in the warmer summer months. Not to be confused with Latin American horchata that is made from rice, Valencian orxata is a sweet, milky drink made from water, sugar and tiger nuts. 

Tiger nuts, or chufa, are nutrient-packed tubers that were originally brought to Valencia when the Arabs occupied Spain. Because horchata is made of tiger nuts, it's naturally nut, dairy and gluten free - perfect for the hungry traveller with food allergies!

Roasted pumpkin - another typical Valencian delight

Valencia's Mercat Central is mecca of fresh food, local delicacies and sublime architecture. Whether you visit to pick up a handful of local treats, shop for your weekly groceries, admire the stunning interior or simply take in the lively ambiance, the Mercat Central de Valencia is sure to thrill your senses.


Plaza Ciudad de Brujas, Valencia 46001
Open Monday - Saturday | 7:00 am - 3:00 pm 


What are some of your favorite markets in Europe?