Snapshots of Asturias: Exploring Spain's Natural Paradise

Nestled in the northwest of Spain, the lush region of Asturias seems to have it all. Known as "Spain's natural paradise", Asturias is home to breathtaking scenery, colorful fishing villages, outdoor adventures, and most importantly (in my opinion), renowned gastronomy. Whether you're an adventure enthusiast or simply a connoisseur of sidra and Cabrales cheese, you won't be disappointed by the sublime beauty of Asturias.

  

Colorful Cudillero

During my three years living in Madrid, I was lucky enough to visit Asturias twice. On the first trip, a group of us stayed at the beach in Santa María del Mar and visited Luanco, Salinas, the arresting cliffs of Cabo de Peñas, and Cangas de Onís - where we kayaked down the Río Sella and explored the mountainous sanctuary of Covadonga. Feeling insatiable after my first visit, two years later I visited a fellow English teaching friend and we went on a culinary pilgrimage through Oviedo, Cudillero, and Gijón.

One trip was packed with adventure while the other was mostly dedicated to eating, drinking, and leisurely exploring - precisely illustrating that Asturias has something to offer for everyone. In "Spain's natural paradise", you don't even have to be a nature lover to enjoy yourself. (But I dare you not to fall in love with their nature. Trust me.)

OVIEDO

Oviedo is an ideal home base if you're planning on traveling throughout the region of Asturias. Of course its old town has all the typical requirements of quintessential Spanish charm: pretty plazas, striking colors, a grand cathedral, and quaint shops. You could spend hours just ambling through the picturesque streets (and you should). But those aren't even the best parts...

What really puts Oviedo on the map, or even just Asturias in general, is its phenomenal regional cuisine. First and foremost: Asturian sidra. This hard apple cider is nothing quite like what we may know from home; it's tart and slightly funky, made with no added sugar or yeast. Since it has no added carbonation, traditional sidra pouring takes a creative approach to add a bit more effervescence. (Read on to see how they do it.)

Trying sidra in Oviedo is a must, and you really can't go wrong with most places on Calle Gascón. For something different (and much sweeter), try the sidra sangria from La Competencia. 

You're going to need some food to soak up all that sidra, and lucky for you, Asturian cuisine is hearty and warms the soul. Above all, you must try fabada: a rich stew made with buttery fava beans, blood sausage, chorizo, and various cuts of pork.

As the region's signature dish, you'll find no shortage of places serving it up. I had great luck at El Fartuquín, whose menu is entirely gluten free. 

Fabada, the signature dish of Asturias

While at El Fartuquín - aka Celiac heaven - we also indulged on their croquetas de jamón, escalopines al Cabrales, arroz con leche with a caramelized sugar crust, and another traditional Asturian specialty that's otherwise seemingly impossible to find gluten free: cachopo.

Much akin to Austria's schnitzel cordon bleu, cachopo is jamón and cheese sandwiched between two steaks, then breaded and fried. And if you're thinking, "Wow, that sounds like a great way to induce a heart attack at the lunch table", you're probably not wrong. It was the most delightful act of gluttony to partake in, and exactly what I was craving on a cold, drizzly day in Oviedo.

After this meal, I have never been so full in my life. Even Thanksgiving pales in comparison. But thankfully this is Spain, and presumably why the post-lunch siesta was invented.

A rich gluten free cachopo from El Fartuquín

CUDILLERO

Confession: Instagram made me do it. As soon as I noticed images of this colorful fishing village floating around, I knew I had to go see it for myself. 

The town itself may be small and sleepy, and getting to Cudillero is anything but convenient. But the kaleidoscope of homes juxtaposed against the rolling green hills and sparkling Bay of Biscay are truly a feast for the senses.

 

 

 

 

Mil gracias to my host Elisa, who navigated the logistics of getting us here. We took a bus from Oviedo to Gijón, where we then hopped a FEVE commuter train to Cudillero - which crawled along at a glacial pace, but often gave us resplendent views of the mountainous countryside.

Our journey and "hike" to the top of the most scenic viewpoints predictably worked up our appetites. So we headed to Casa Julio for some chorizo a la sidra, mussels in a spicy tomato sauce, and local Asturian cheeses. And it wouldn't be an authentic Asturian cheese plate without queso Cabrales, which is the region's signature blue cheese aged in natural caves.

While I personally may not be an enthusiast, coastal Asturias also has some of the best seafood in Spain

GIJÓN

We had a connection in Gijón on our way back to Oviedo from Cudillero, so we strolled around the old town and reveled in its charm. Along with aimlessly strolling, we naturally couldn't resist another filling meal.

Basically the Disneyland of regional delicacies, Tierra Astur is a franchise that at first may seem a little gimmicky, but is still damn satisfying. (And potential kitsch factor aside, the locals also really love it.) 

I warmed up with a hearty bowl of pote, or stew, alongside more local cheese and of course, sidra. As I mentioned earlier, traditional sidra pouring serves a purpose to enhance the flavor and add more fizz to an otherwise flat and earthy cider. It's also an art form. (Don't try this at home. Or at least, don't try this in MY home. Thanks.)

Pouring sidra is no easy feat

CABO DE PEÑAS

Along with its emerald hills and misty pastures, Asturias is also famed for its rugged coastline. Located on the most northern point of Asturias, the rocky cliffs of Cabo Peñas jut out into the Bay of Biscay and offer majestic views of the northern coast. (Just be warned that the winding roads of Gozón are not for the faint of heart... or stomach.) 

COVADONGA 

Perched within the Picos de Europa among the wisps of clouds you will find Covadonga: a sanctuary boasting a stunning basilica alongside surreal lakes, caves, and chapels. It's one of the most historically significant places in Spain, for it was here that the Christians won an important battle against the Moors in the year 772. 

A trifecta of history, spirituality, and nature, everything about Covadonga is simply awe inspiring. 

Nearby you can find the towns of Cangas de Onís and Arriondas, where we kayaked 12 kilometers down the Río Sella with Astur Aventura. 

Both trips to Asturias were before I started doing Pilates every day (and before I gave up dairy... * sobs *), so suffice it to say, the kayaking itself was a real struggle at the time. However, regardless of how out of shape I was, it was still one of the most fun activities I did that year. 

You don't have to be outdoorsy to fall in love with Spain's natural paradise. While still somewhat under the radar, Asturias is ultimately worth going off the beaten path. You're sure to leave enchanted.

Repatriation is Like a Bad Breakup

About a month ago, I was scrolling through my Instagram feed when a photo of a familiar street in Madrid popped up. Out of curiosity, I clicked on the blogger's profile, and I was immediately inundated with images of the stunning city I had just departed. This girl was frolicking through my favorite streets, sipping on tinto de verano at my favorite rooftop bars, and even brunching in my old neighborhood.

At first, I started tearing up. Then suddenly, envy began to pulse through my veins. "Who is this b*#@%?", I seethed with spite. "Why is SHE in Madrid? That's MY city. It should be ME that's there."

I had never even heard of this random girl's blog, and in reality I'm sure she is a great person. (And given that she was visiting all of my favorite spots in Madrid, we can assume she has good taste.) My childish, unwarranted rage made me feel like a jealous ex-girlfriend. And that's precisely when I realized that Spain broke up with me.

During my first month home, all I felt was heartbreak. My heart literally hurt. I couldn't sleep, I couldn't eat, and the throbbing aches in my chest stubbornly overpowered the jet lag I was so desperately clinging onto. I thought I had run out of tears when I cried all the way to Iceland, but apparently I was mistaken.

I had a lot of valid reasons for leaving Madrid. But now, blinded by the nostalgia of the past three years, I can't really seem to remember them. Something to do with sustainability, finances, and pursuing the next step in my career. Or whatever. I suppose since I left Madrid voluntarily, it was actually me who broke up with Spain. Either way, break ups suck. The fact that it was my decision to "end the relationship" doesn't make it hurt any less.

When you leave a place you love, you feel like you've left a chunk of your soul behind with you.

The process gets exponentially more complicated when you transition between cultures. When I first came to Madrid, I was worried about adapting to a new culture, functioning in an entirely different language, and essentially starting a new life from scratch. But after spending three years immersed in the language, culture, and quirks of another country, I've adopted countless Spanish customs as my own.

I've been stretched and challenged, I've expanded my world view, and ultimately, I've become a little bit more madrileña along the way. Coming home and being expected to feel like a star-spangled American again is like forcing a puzzle piece into a space that doesn't quite fit.

But this time around, it's more than just reverse culture shock. The rug has been ripped out from under me, and gone are the days of two-hour lunch breaks, three-day weekends, and 30€ Ryanair flights whisking me off to my next destination. Since coming home, I've been forced to come to terms with the bitter realities of job hunting, buying a car, saving for grad school, and planning for the future.

Everyone in the USA is probably rolling their eyes and thinking, "Welcome to adulthood, Courtney. It's about time." And it's not my intention to sound entitled or pretentious. But it's a lot to digest at once, especially combined with changes in friendships and the social sphere, as well as those nagging reminders of how leaving Spain absolutely shattered my heart.

I want to be wandering the streets of Malasaña, sipping on vino tinto in Plaza de las Comendadoras, and going on last-minute getaways with my fellow expat friends. I want to be sinking my teeth into a gooey pincho de tortilla at Bodega de la Ardosa. I want to savor vermouth before lunch, tapas crawl in La Latina, and sobremesa for hours afterwards. 

I miss the way Spanish words roll off my tongue and dance languidly in the warm air. I miss watching the street lamps ignite at dusk, making you feel as if the day’s adventures are only just beginning. I miss the feeling that anything is possible, and that seeing the world is a tangible reality. Madrid helped me become the best version of myself, and right now, I’m not sure how I'll be able to preserve that.

I might not sound very original, considering countless other ex-expats have already shared this quote, but it's a frighteningly accurate portrayal of how I'm feeling right now:

"You will never be completely at home again, because part of your heart will always be elsewhere. That is the price you pay for the richness of loving and knowing people in more than one place."- Miriam Adeney

It's been about seven weeks since I returned to the States, and I'm pleased to report that I'm doing a lot better than when I first moved back. Since this feels like a breakup, my natural instinct is to lie on the couch, eat guacamole and binge-watch Seinfeld. However, I've been keeping up a crazy schedule of job hunting, interviewing, reconnecting with friends and family, stepping up my exercise regime, and conquering my irrational fear of driving. (But in full disclosure, I still watch Seinfeld.)

And I'm thrilled to announce that I've just accepted a full-time job that feels like the perfect fit for me! (I promise to divulge more details soon!)

The Madrid-shaped hole in my heart has yet to heal, and I doubt anything will ever completely fill it. But I'll continue to try to embrace this new chapter, plan more adventures, and be present in Seattle. Closing the door on my life in Spain has shaken me to my core, but my gut is telling me that this is where I need to be right now.

Fellow ex-expats, what has helped you cope with repatriation?

Tapas Crawling with Devour Seville Food Tours

I have always revered Andalusia's colorful capital as a mecca for foodies. After countless trips to Seville, its vibrant bars, bustling restaurants and mouthwatering delicacies still manage to lure me in. That said, I would rarely venture past my tried-and-true favorites. Little did I know what I had been missing out on! 

After savoring the Tastes, Tapas & Traditions tour with Devour Seville, I walked away with a full belly and a newfound appreciation for Seville's gastronomy. Thanks to the wit and wisdom of my guides Jaimie and David, I discovered a delectable selection of new favorite eateries in Seville. 

If you're eager to try authentic tapas and wondering where to eat in Seville, look no further than Devour Seville Food Tours.

Tostá de pringá, perhaps the best way to start the morning 

We started our morning at an iconic breakfast locale in the center. Though I had considered myself Seville-savvy before this trip, I immediately realized that I had been in the dark for years. How had I never heard of this darling diamond in the rough? This no-frills, locals-only bar immediately won over my heart (and stomach). After fueling up with our cortados, we tasted the signature tostá de pringá, a flavorful pork stew toast that delighted my senses.


Unbelievably tasty jamón ibérico

I like to think of Seville as the capital of all things quintessentially Spanish. It doesn't get much more Spanish than jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham), which is what we set out to try next. We ventured to a local market, where we learned about the intricate techniques of cutting an Iberian ham leg. My tastebuds rejoiced as soon as the buttery jamón ibérico melted in my mouth. I've tasted my fair share of this national treasure, but what I had here was undoubtedly some of the best
jamón I've ever tried.

Naranjitos made by nuns

Our guides led us through colorful alleys, peppering our journey with fascinating anecdotes about Spanish and Andalusian history. Though I had studied (and subsequently forgot) quite a bit of Spanish history in college, they tied it together in a way that finally stuck with me.

I had no idea what to expect when we reached our next destination, for there wasn't a restaurant in sight. In fact, we had stumbled upon a hidden convent where the nuns are famous for making traditional sweets. Decidedly out of my element, I entered the convent with equal parts suspicion and curiosity. Our guides then ordered a tasty batch of naranjitos, an almond-based cookie with subtle hints of orange. I was immediately hooked.

Chorizo and carne mechada montaditos

Our next stop lead us to a Semana Santa themed bar, which was most certainly my favorite spot on the tour. With walls adorned with photos and relics from Seville's famed Holy Week celebrations, this hole in the wall served up some mean montaditos (small sandwiches). The spicy chorizo with roquefort cheese and carne mechada sandwiches positively rocked my palate. 

Although Holy Week only comes once a year, it's celebrated every day at this bar!

Next, we quenched our thirst with a particularly unique Seville specialty, orange wine. Yes, it's just as exquisite as it sounds! This aromatized orange wine is served at an iconic bar owned by a famous flamenco singer's son. Though the bar itself is tiny, the interior is sonorously brimming with charisma.

Orange wine, a sweet Seville specialty

Our next stop was an iconic freiduría that specializes in fried fish. Fried fish is an especially popular snack during Seville's renowned Feria de Abril celebration. The house specialty is the cazón en adobo (vinegar and cumin marinated sand shark), but I feasted upon fresh tomatoes drizzled with Andalusian olive oil and sea salt. 

For our final serving of home-cooked tapas, we set off towards a cozy tavern in the center of town. This tapas bar was coincidentally located below the hotel I stayed in during my first trip to Seville. My mom and I complained every night about how noisy it was downstairs - and for good reason! Consistently packed during meal times, this tavern is an undoubted favorite among locals. As soon as I tasted my first bite of Iberian pork shoulder, I immediately regretted not wandering in six years ago. 

You can never be too full for dessert...

To top off our feast, we ventured to an artisan ice cream shop that redefined my standards of dessert. Rumored to serve the best ice cream in Seville, this shop is notorious for its innovative flavors and Seville-inspired twists. I savored every bite of my chile chocolate and blueberry helado, though my inner-glutton was tempted to sample each flavor.

While tapas culture in Spain can certainly feel daunting at first, this tour offers a balanced "Tapas 101" introductory course. More than just a tapas tour, this culinary walking tour introduced me to countless new tastes and traditions of Seville. As well as I thought I knew Seville before, I came away with a delightful array of new go-to spots. Ultimately, this tour is an experience that's not to be missed when visiting Andalusia's striking capital.

The Tastes, Tapas & Traditions tour runs every Tuesday-Saturday morning at 10:30 or 11:15 am. The tour lasts about four hours and stops at seven family-run businesses. I highly recommend this experience to travelers interested in tapas culture and epicures eager to get off the beaten path!

Devour Spain graciously invited me on this tour, however, all opinions expressed are my own.

As a Celiac, I took this tour at my own risk. While Devour Seville can make substitutions to accommodate a gluten-free diet, they cannot completely guarantee avoiding cross contamination. If you avoid gluten and are interested in taking this tour, please get in touch with Devour Seville by email to discuss Celiac/gluten-free options.

Have you ever been tapas crawling in Spain?
What did you like best about the experience?