Exactly two years ago, I was working in Stockholm and venturing to Norway for my Easter holidays. Little did I know that two years later, I'd be stuck inside during a global pandemic, relishing every last sweet morsel of my recent travel memories.
Scandinavia has always held a special place in my heart. Previously, my separate trips to Denmark, Iceland, and Sweden all coincidentally aligned with various major (and sometimes tumultuous) transitions in my life, and each destination managed to instill a sense of calm in me. Norway was no exception.
As I sit here in quarantine, reminiscing about Norway in my cozy apartment in Los Angeles (which of course, was inspired by Scandi-minimal decor), I attempt to channel that same sense of peace and tranquility that Scandinavia never fails to give me.
Scandinavia has always held a special place in my heart. Previously, my separate trips to Denmark, Iceland, and Sweden all coincidentally aligned with various major (and sometimes tumultuous) transitions in my life, and each destination managed to instill a sense of calm in me. Norway was no exception.
As I sit here in quarantine, reminiscing about Norway in my cozy apartment in Los Angeles (which of course, was inspired by Scandi-minimal decor), I attempt to channel that same sense of peace and tranquility that Scandinavia never fails to give me.
With Norway just a hop, skip, and a jump away from my temporary home of Stockholm, I would have been foolish not to take advantage of its proximity. Norway had never been at the top of my list, and the price tag always scared me off when I was teaching English in Madrid. I knew I'd enjoy my trip through Bergen, Oslo, and the fjords, but I didn't have particularly high expectations. But I seriously underestimated this natural paradise.
The first thing that blew me away about Norway was how much it reminded me of home, the Pacific Northwest. The fjords, mountains, and weather transported me back to growing up near Seattle, gliding on a ferry through the San Juan Islands, and driving from Seattle up to Whistler. The scenery was at times so reminiscent of home, I often had to stop and remind myself that I was still in fact in Norway.
It's no coincidence that I immediately felt at home, as Seattle was actually a hub for Scandinavian settlers in the 19th century. In fact, by 1910, one third of Seattle's immigrants were from Nordic countries. The communities they established, like Ballard, are still thriving, while their cultural influences endure. ("Seattle freeze", anyone?)
After the long train rides from Stockholm and Oslo, I was eager to hit the ground running and make the most of my short time in this gem of a city. Filled with colorful old world charm, Bergen immediately transported me into the past.
Of the various things to do in Bergen, I prioritized my favorite pastime: aimlessly wandering around with my camera, admiring the architecture, people watching, and soaking in the sublime seaside vistas. I also ascended to the top of Bergen on the Fløyen funicular, which has been running for over 100 years. Atop the mountain boasts dramatic panoramas of where the city meets the fjords.
I was also enamored by the Fisketorget, a modern indoor food hall sitting right on the harbor. Featuring a sleek interior and local delicacies from around Norway, it reminded me of Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel (without the hordes of tourists) or Copenhagen's Torvehallerne Market.
The next day, I woke up at the crack of dawn to begin my adventure through the fjords. I started with a picturesque train ride from Bergen to Voss, where I then caught a bus to Gudvangen. Each ride bypassed charming villages and stunning landscapes. From Gudvangen, I hopped on the boat that would take me through Naerøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord to Flåm.
I arranged this self-guided tour through Norway in a Nutshell (Bergen to Oslo) to avoid the logistical nightmare of planning countless trains, buses, and boats. Because there was no tour guide or cheesy group activities, I was able to still enjoy my independence as a solo traveler while also ensuring seamless transfers and connections. (This is not a sponsored post; I genuinely recommend Norway in a Nutshell if you're looking to save time and energy. The scheduling was flawless.)
The cold never bothered me anyway. (Just kidding, it bothers me a lot, but Norway was worth it.)
I was awestruck by the fjords creatively carving their way through majestic mountains. Gliding through the sparkling waters with the icy wind in my face, surrounded by skylines designed to make you feel small, I was positively buzzing. Despite the freezing temperatures, I was practically in a meditative state.
Dramatic scenes of Naerøyfjord
FLÅM TO MYRDAL
After the striking scenery of the fjord cruise, we docked in the quaint town of Flåm. I lingered long enough for a quick lunch and some souvenir shopping (mostly just for warmer socks, but I also found myself laughing hysterically at the numerous troll figurines found here and through the rest of Norway... do people actually buy these?).
I then hopped on the historic Flåm Railway, where the climb to Myrdal is known to be one of the most beautiful (and steep) train rides in the world. In this vintage style train, we got spectacular views of Norway's many feats of nature, including mountains, ravines, and waterfalls.
From Myrdal, I commenced the long journey back to Oslo. Much like the others, this train ride was not lacking in scenery. While passing through Finse, Norwegian cross country skiing territory, desolate snow covered plateaus were continuously dotted with skiers and cozy red cabins. Forests blanketed in snow and were drenched in gold from the soft Northern light. I drifted in and out of naps and movies while the country's natural paradise passed before me.
Sleek, trendy, and modern, Norway's capital is the antithesis of Bergen's storybook charm. But that's not to say that Oslo doesn't have its own charisma. Unfortunately with it being Easter weekend, almost everything was closed. I was lucky that I could still catch a free walking tour with Free Tour Oslo, which I always make an effort to do when I'm a solo traveler in a new city. I eagerly soaked up the history lessons, which put more context into the culture I had been experiencing for the past few days.
I had an atypical Easter Sunday at SALT, Oslo's seaside sauna. In what feels like a mix between a sauna, nightclub, and art exhibition, Oslo can't get much more hipster than this. Occasionally I'd go outside to dip into the ice cold Aquavit barrel, and run back into the sweltering cabin bumping house music. There were also private barrel saunas (not designed for the claustrophobic) that boasted amazing views of Oslo's opera house.
After a solid afternoon spent defrosting at SALT, I refueled at Vippa, Oslo's trendiest food hall. Nestled right next to the Oslo Fjord in what feels like an industrial warehouse, Vippa hosts a myriad of food trucks offering international and sustainable options. I'd teleport back there right now if I could.
I ended my time in Norway with a piano concert at Oslo's stunning opera house. The Opera House, which was designed to resemble an iceberg jutting out of the sea, was my favorite spot in the capital because it instilled the most calm in me (as many places in Scandinavia tend to do). The peaceful panoramas from the rooftop deck were just as impressive as the music inside. It was a harmonious end to a trip I'll always savor.
