Eating Gluten-Free in Croatia

It's no secret that I sightsee through my tastebuds. 

Although I was diagnosed with Celiac disease in 2010, avoiding gluten has not stopped me from tasting my way around the globe. Upon traveling to Croatia with my mom, a fellow Celiac, I was determined to make it one of our best foodie adventures yet.

Croatia had been at the top of my bucket list for years, but I knew relatively little about its cuisine. As we ate our way through Croatia, we were surprised and delighted by how Celiac friendly the food is.

With each stop on our adventure through Croatia, it became easier to find gluten-free options. We started off in Zagreb, venturing into Zagorje to visit Trakošćan Castle and Varaždin. We stopped in Plitvice Lakes National Park on our way to Split, where we sunned ourselves until hopping a ferry to Hvar. After a heavenly island escape, we ended our trip in the magical city of Dubrovnik.

While Croatia itself is a dream destination, the gastronomy alone is reason enough to visit. If you're planning a trip to Croatia with Celiac disease or a gluten intolerance, here is my complete guide to eating gluten-free in Croatia.

HELPFUL HINTS

While most restaurants don't have a separate gluten-free menu, some may mark which dishes are bez glutena (gluten-free). If the menu doesn't specify, don't hesitate to ask the restaurant if a dish contains gluten or can be prepared gluten-free.

In general, be wary of sauces, desserts, and most polenta. Always double check when ordering soups and stews, as many can contain flour or pasta. Just in case, print out a gluten-free Croatian
restaurant card to show your waiters if you have any doubts about a dish's ingredients.

Surprisingly, most restaurants are actually quite knowledgeable and accommodating. This could be due to the heavy influx of tourists in recent years, or simply because Croatian cuisine is naturally gluten-free friendly. In fact, most of my waiters already knew which dishes were safe to eat without having to go back to the kitchen to ask.

Eating gluten-free in coastal Croatia

Cuisine on the Dalmatian Coast is remarkably similar to Italian fare, which makes it all the more convenient to navigate as a Celiac. Due to its fresh Mediterranean flavors, you usually can't go wrong with seafood, grilled fish and meat, vegetable dishes, or prosciutto with melon.

Authentic Croatian risotto is not prepared with flour, which usually makes it a reliable choice. (That said, it's wise to double check with each restaurant.) If you're feeling adventurous, try the crni rizot, a black risotto made with squid ink. Be sure to also try peka, a method of cooking meat and vegetables under a domed baking lid.

Eating gluten-free in continental Croatia

Continental Croatian cuisine, on the other hand, is heartier than its coastal counterparts. Continental Croatia features a stronger emphasis on meat dishes and heavy stews. As opposed to the Italian-inspired gastronomy of Dalmatia, this region's cuisine is influenced by its central European neighbors. The Austro-Hungarian tastes make it slightly more difficult to find naturally gluten-free options.

In Zagreb and Zagorje, we relied on roasted lamb, potatoes, and charcuterie plates. Vegetables are generally used less in continental fare, but we were still able to find the occasional salad. While it was less convenient to eat gluten-free in continental Croatia, we still found a plethora of viable options.

With a myriad of gluten-free options and a cuisine that naturally accommodates Celiacs, eating gluten-free in Croatia shouldn't be a considerable challenge. The following restaurants have my favorite gluten-free dishes, so prepare your tastebuds for a gluten-free feast of Croatian treats.

DUBROVNIK

Proto

Široka 1

Founded in 1886, Proto is one of Dubrovnik's oldest and most revered eateries. Known for its exquisite seafood, Proto specializes in fish dishes using traditional recipes from local fishermen. Atop the elegant terrace, one is sure to enjoy five-star service and cuisine.

Proto has attracted a distinguished list of patrons, including a glamorous array of actors, musicians and royals. If you're willing to splurge, look no further than Proto. Reservations recommended.

Contemplating the GF menu on Proto's breezy terrace

Stara Loza

Prijeko 24

This romantic rooftop restaurant, perched atop the chic Hotel Prijeko Palace, offers an entirely unique gastronomic experience. Serving a tasty array of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, Stara Loza incorporates gourmet flavors with memorable twists. My tastebuds rejoiced as I indulged on a fresh citrus salad and juicy sirloin steak with Brie, wasabi and pepper jam.

While the cuisine is decidedly out of this world, the dreamy vistas and whimsical settings make Stara Loza all the more impressive. Reservations recommended.

Stara Loza's rooftop views at blue hour

SPLIT

Bokeria 

Domaldova 8

Named after Barcelona's most iconic market, Bokeria is a mecca of modern Mediterranean cuisine. This bustling restaurant thrives in a former hardware store, where contemporary flavors are reflected in the fittingly sleek and industrial decor.

After our first lunch here, the heavenly flavors and impressive wine list convinced us to come back for a second meal. I still dream about the carpaccio with pickled onions, candied walnuts and honey mustard, along with the pear, asparagus and gorgonzola risotto. (Reservations recommended.)

Legendary carpaccio at Bokeria

Paradigma

Ulica Bana Josipa Jelacica 3

My rooftop feast at Paradigma was the crown jewel of gastronomic experiences in coastal Croatia. Resting atop an elegant terrace with inviting views of the sea and old town, Paradigma serves a blend of traditional Mediterranean gastronomy with unique contemporary twists. Indulgence is the name of the game here, as exemplified by our decadent feast.

We started our meal with champagne and fresh oysters, which were served in a variety of flavors including raspberry tapioca, cucumber foam, fresh watermelon, burrata, and jamón ibérico. The unconventionally sublime flavors effortlessly seduced my tastebuds. Next, we savored a Jerusalem artichoke and rose soup, followed by baba ghanoush risotto with green olives, goat cheese and eggplant espuma. (Reservations recommended.)

Bokeria's pear, asparagus and gorgonzola risotto

Uje Oil Bar 

Dominisova 3

Pioneered by Croatian olive oil retailers, this trendy bistro is hailed for its seasonal Dalmatian fare. The interior is cozy yet refined, while its romantic alleys offer picturesque al fresco dining. You can also sample a variety of Uje's extra virgin olive oils, which may tempt you to pick up a bottle of liquid gold on your way out. Whether you're in the mood for cheese and charcuterie or hearty Dalmatian classics, look no further than Uje Oil Bar.

HVAR

Giaxa
Petra Hektorovica 3

Our most decadent meal in Hvar was enjoyed at Giaxa, where we savored carpaccio with black truffle and Parmesan, lamb rack with white polenta, and green beans with pancetta. After an extravagant meal and several glasses of Pošip wine on the cozy terrace, Giaxa goes down as one of my favorite restaurants on the Dalmatian Coast. (Reservations recommended.)

Gariful's fresh mussels (not pictured: a phenomenal glass of local rosé)

Gariful

Riva 21

Along Hvar's polished waterfront lies the elegant terrace of Gariful, where the sparkling seaside views are almost as sublime as the seafood. From the patio's white tablecloths adorned with fresh seafood and world-class wines, one can watch opulent yachts sail into the harbor and chic passersby strolling the Riva (and maybe even spot a celebrity or two).

The refined nautical settings exude luxury. Though the prices are steep, the locale and fresh fare are worth the splurge. Reservations recommended.

ZAGREB

Vinodol

Nikole Tesle 10

Located in the heart of downtown Zagreb, Vinodol serves some of the capital's best cuisine. Gourmet yet unpretentious, Vinodol is revered for its classic continental dishes. Their succulent meals are prepared using seasonal ingredients, which follow traditional Croatian recipes. 

Savor the spit roasted lamb, seasonal soups, and charcuterie plates piled high with local sausages and cheeses. Pair them with a velvety glass of Croatian wine from Vinodol's phenomenal wine list. For a romantic and relaxed meal, reserve a spot on the airy covered patio.

Vinodol's platter of spicy sausages and fresh cheese

VARAŽDIN

Restoran Bedem
Vladimira Nazora 9

Named one of the Top 10 restaurants in Croatia, Bedem is the crown jewel of Varaždin. Two distinguished Croatian chefs have come together to establish this gastronomic gem, which is nestled just behind Varaždin's castle. Using fresh and local ingredients, Bedem serves some of the highest quality creations in continental Croatia.

Here I indulged on a five-course meal that was arguably one of the best dining experiences of my life. Every dish was bursting with flavor, and the chefs went above and beyond to accommodate my gluten-free needs. Out of all the incredible meals I devoured in Croatia, my feast at Bedem was surely the most memorable.

A five-star meal at Bedem

Note: Although I'm usually quite sensitive to cross-contamination, I didn't get sick from any of these restaurants. That said, I did not look into how these restaurants prevent (or fail to prevent) cross-contamination, so eat at your own risk.

Do you have any food allergies or intolerances?

If so, how do you deal with them on the road?

Dubrovnik: Croatia's Crown Jewel

Nicknamed the "Pearl of the Adriatic", it's no surprise that Dubrovnik embodies unabashed elegance. Commanding the bright cerulean sea, Dubrovnik is half medieval fairytale, half paradise. In all of its shining, shimmering splendor, Dubrovnik is understandably Croatia's top tourist destination.

But amid the charm and charisma, the sea of red rooftops tells a story of Dubrovnik's tumultuous history. Behind the spectacular scenery is an aura of strength and perseverance, which is perhaps what makes Dubrovnik all the more enchanting.

Dubrovnik's captivating history, colorful character and sublime beauty assert it as one of Europe's most popular getaways. Though navigating the crowds can at times feel overwhelming, no number of tourists can dull the luster of this gem. Despite the throngs of visitors, the breezy yet vibrant energy of Dubrovnik is palpable and thriving.

While there's no shortage of things to do in Croatia's crown jewel, here are my favorite spots to eat, drink and explore in Dubrovnik, Croatia.

EXPLORE

Old Town

Jutting into the brilliant blue sea, the fortified Old Town of Dubrovnik feels straight out of a fantasy. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is brimming with magnetizing history, culture and charisma. A painful past has given way to a prosperous present, and now the baroque buildings and sleek marble streets shine brighter than ever.

During the 1991 Siege of Dubrovnik, rockets rained down on the Old Town, damaging almost 70% of the buildings. The city's iconic terracotta rooftop tiles have slowly been restored, resulting in a stark contrast of colors. The juxtaposition of old weathered tiles and bright new tiles paints a vivid picture of the war's devastation. Through the reconstruction, the rooftops' varying shades of red have somberly symbolized the conflict.

While the scars of the Yugoslav Wars have shaped modern Dubrovnik, the city perseveres with optimism. From the polished main street of Stradun to the Old Town's maze of narrow alleys, Dubrovnik pulses with renewed energy.

City Walls

Dubrovnik is perhaps best known for its grandiose, fortress-like walls surrounding the city. These imposing fortifications were built in the middle ages to protect the maritime state. Perched atop the city's sun-drenched canopies, one can enjoy dazzling views of the Adriatic and the sea of red rooftops below.

Allow at least a couple of hours to stroll the walls and take in the breathtaking panoramas. Photographers should allot more time to capture all of the picturesque details. Out of all the things to do in Dubrovnik, walking the walls is an absolute must.

Franciscan Monastery's Old Pharmacy

Dubrovnik's Franciscan Monastery is more than just striking architecture and sunny cloisters, it's also home to Europe's oldest working pharmacy. Established in 1317, the Friars Minor Pharmacy was founded to serve both monks and the general public.

While the archaic equipment can be found in the monastery's museum, you can still walk into the old pharmacy to pick up ancient and modern remedies. I heard wonders about their skincare products, so I took home some rose facial cream and lavender hand lotion that are made using the Franciscan's original recipes.

Strolling the City Walls

Atop the Jesuit Staircase

DRINK

Pošip wine by the sea in Lapad

Buža Bar

Crijeviceva 9

Perhaps Dubrovnik's most prized diamond in the rough, Buža Bar is quite literally a hole in the wall. The terrace of this unpretentious cliff bar is built into rocks outside the old City Walls. While the limited selection of screw-top wines and cheap beers leaves much to be desired, nothing quite beats the resplendent scenery and unobstructed views of the Adriatic. The ambiance is nothing short of sublime.

To venture to Buža Bar, climb the Jesuit Staircase (leading to St. Ignatius Church), turn left, and follow the old City Walls until you see a "cold drinks" sign. Follow the arrow and head uphill until you see a hole in the wall on your left.

Sunset vistas at Buža Bar

EAT

Fresh prosciutto and melon, a Dalmatian classic

Stara Loza

Prijeko 24

This romantic rooftop restaurant, perched atop the chic Hotel Prijeko Palace, offers an entirely unique gastronomic experience. Serving a tasty array of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, Stara Loza incorporates gourmet flavors with memorable twists. My tastebuds rejoiced as I indulged on a fresh citrus salad and juicy sirloin steak with Brie, wasabi and pepper jam.

While the cuisine is decidedly out of this world, the dreamy vistas and whimsical settings make Stara Loza all the more impressive. Reservations recommended.

Stara Loza's rooftop views at blue hour

Proto

Široka 1

Founded in 1886, Proto is one of Dubrovnik's oldest and most revered eateries. Known for its exquisite seafood, Proto specializes in fish dishes using traditional recipes from local fishermen. Atop the elegant terrace, one is sure to enjoy five-star service and cuisine.

Proto has attracted a distinguished list of patrons, including a glamorous array of actors, musicians and royals. If you're willing to splurge, look no further than Proto. Reservations recommended.

HELPFUL HINTS

Prepare for crowds

During the summer months, "packed" is a vast understatement. Unfortunately, Dubrovnik's Old Town is swarming with tourists. Factor in the cruise ships, and the hordes of visitors can feel especially overwhelming. Forget snapping the perfect photo without getting any people in it. Even swerving down the main street of Stradun can feel daunting. If you absolutely abhor crowds, take advantage of the early morning or visit during the off-season.

Avoid the City Walls at midday

If you want great photos, don't hike the old City Walls in the middle of the day. Most shutterbugs already know that the worst time of day to take photos is when the sun is directly overhead, and this is especially something to consider while visiting Dubrovnik. 

Dubrovnik's City Walls are brimming with photo opportunities, and I was massively disappointed when we went at midday and all of my photos were washed out. Although the timing was hard to coordinate while traveling with other people, I wish I could have found a way to wake up early and explore the walls as soon as they opened. That way, I could have beaten the crowds and taken advantage of the better lighting.

Stay in Lapad 

If you're looking to balance out Old Town's charms with some quality beach time, check out the hotels in the Lapad neighborhood. Just a quick bus ride away from Old Town, Lapad's hotels offer more relaxed seaside escapes. Hotel Kompas was our haven of choice, providing us with first-class service, sensational scenery, and refuge from the crowds of Old Town.

Have you ever been to Dubrovnik?
If so, what other recommendations would you add?

A Glamorous Getaway to Hvar, Croatia

The island of Hvar seduced me as soon as our ferry from Split drifted into the harbor. I felt an inexplicable pull, similar to what I've felt in Santorini, Porto and Paris - three of my favorite places that were especially quick to win me over. It was love at first sight.

My good gut feeling about Hvar was not mistaken. With each corner I turned and each fresh meal I devoured, I became more and more infatuated with the majestic island. Suffice it to say, having to leave after just a few short days tugged on my heartstrings.

From the seaside charm of Old Town to the lush fields of wild lavender, Hvar effortlessly took my breath away. I could have easily spent weeks wandering through its narrow cobblestone alleys and basking on its shores.

Hvar is notorious for celebrity sightings, and after witnessing the island's unassuming glamour, I can fully understand why the rich and famous flock here. Although Hvar emanates sophistication, it's by no means pretentious. It's a juxtaposition of classy and casual. Therefore, it's no surprise the island's natural beauty attracts luxury travels and backpackers alike.

The true definition of paradise

Of its many alluring assets, Hvar's dazzling jewel-tone waters are especially inviting. The dreamy cerulean sea practically begs you to jump in.

Seeing as we were short on time but wanted to take advantage of the island's picturesque shores, my mom and I stayed close to Old Town and wandered over to Hotel Amfora's beach. Though we chose our beach based on convenience, the atmosphere was decidedly relaxing. 

Gariful's mussels in white wine and garlic

Naturally, I spent ample time eating my way through the island. It's not a true vacation unless you sightsee through your tastebuds, right?

Our most decadent meal was enjoyed at Giaxa, where we savored carpaccio with black truffle and Parmesan, lamb rack with white polenta, and green beans with pancetta. After an extravagant meal and several glasses of Pošip wine on the cozy terrace, Giaxa goes down as one of my favorite restaurants in all of Croatia. (Reservations recommended.)

We also indulged on a seafood feast at Gariful, where the sparkling waterfront views were almost as sublime as the mussels. Though the prices were steep, the locale and fresh fare were worth the splurge. 

Lush fields of wild lavender

Perhaps the most memorable part of our stay was escaping Hvar's Old Town for an evening of wine tasting and a home-cooked dinner in a private olive grove. As we crossed the island and zig-zagged through lavender fields, we found ourselves in the quiet town of Jelsa.

We started off at Vina Tomić, where we sipped on phenomenal local wines in a cellar modeled after Split's Diocletian's Palace. Our next stop was Duboković, where we tried a selection of no-frills boutique wines in a quaint, candlelit cellar.

Once we worked up an appetite, we winded uphill to a family-owned olive grove with striking views of the Stari Grad Plain. Our gracious hosts prepared an authentic Dalmatian feast for us, complete with homemade cheese, tapenades, and wine. Though I'm not usually a huge fan of fish, I happily devoured freshly caught sea bass, cooked to perfection in a wood fired oven.

As the sun lazily sank into the rolling hills below us, we chatted with the family about their olive grove, their families, and Croatia's tumultuous history. Amid the hordes of tourists abounding in Croatia, genuinely connecting with locals was a refreshing change of pace. 

A private dinner in a family-owned olive grove

After only a few days in heavenly Hvar, it immediately soared to the top of my list of all-time favorite places. While I'll always cherish my memories from this trip, a part of me will always dream of going back.

Have you ever been to Hvar?
What are some of your all-time favorite places?

A Guide to Savoring Split, Croatia

While Croatia abounds with dreamy escapes and enthralling adventures, there's nothing quite like the dramatic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast. Among coastal Croatia's many gems, the effervescent hub of Split is one of the go-to destinations for ancient history, fresh cuisine, pulsing nightlife and unabashed sun-worshipping.

Breezy, vibrant and serene, Split effortlessly embodies the spirit of the Mediterranean. In between chasing waterfalls and island hopping, a stop in Split is an absolute must for any Croatian itinerary.

However, seeing as Croatia is quickly becoming one of Europe's most popular destinations, Split harbors its fair share of tourist traps. In order to avoid the overpriced, overrated and downright tacky, here are my tried-and-true recommendations for authentically enjoying Split.

EXPLORE

Old Town

Though Split is acclaimed for its sparkling waterfront and inviting seas, much of its charm is anchored to the historic old town. Half of the old town resides in the ruins of Diocletian's Palace, a 4th century Roman fortress that once dominated the city. Inside the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets, quaint outdoor cafés hug the stone walls, the pungent aroma of olive oil wafts through the air, and cascades of bougainvillea drape over weathered shutters. Every alley is a feast for the senses.

Diocletian's Palace

While Diocletian's imposing fortress has transformed into the beating heart of Split's old town, the palace's original design can still be found in the basement. Accessing its lower floors from Split's seaside promenade, the Riva, allows visitors to see the floor plan and envision what the palace could have been like during Diocletian's glory days. Though the remains of the fortress are scarce compared to what it once was, Diocletian's Palace still boasts some of Europe's most impressive Roman ruins.

The Riva

Sauntering down Split's sleek promenade is a rite of passage upon arrival. With sublime seaside views and a plethora of waterfront bars and cafés, the Riva is an ideal place to grab a cocktail and people watch. While its restaurants are of seemingly dubious quality, a quick coffee or fresh-pressed juice makes for the perfect pit stop during your stroll.

Cathedral of St. Domnius

This well-preserved Roman edifice was originally built as a mausoleum for Diocletian, who was notorious for persecuting Christians. After his death, the Christians got even by destroying his sarcophagus and turning his tomb into a cathedral. The church's bell tower flaunts resplendent views of the city, while the interior's crypt and treasury equally captivate visitors. Your ticket also covers entry to Diocletian's Temple of Jupiter, which was converted into a baptistry.

INDULGE

Bokeria's savory carpaccio

Bokeria 

Domaldova 8

Named after Barcelona's most iconic market, Bokeria is a mecca of modern Mediterranean cuisine. This bustling restaurant thrives in a former hardware store, where contemporary flavors are reflected in the fittingly sleek and industrial decor.

After our first lunch here, the heavenly flavors and impressive wine list convinced us to come back for a second meal. I still dream about the carpaccio with pickled onions, candied walnuts and honey mustard, along with the pear, asparagus and gorgonzola risotto. (Reservations recommended.)

Paradigma

Ulica Bana Josipa Jelacica 3

My rooftop feast at Paradigma was the crown jewel of gastronomic experiences in coastal Croatia. Perched atop an elegant terrace with inviting views of the sea and old town, Paradigma serves a blend of traditional Mediterranean gastronomy with unique contemporary twists. Indulgence is the name of the game here, as exemplified by our decadent feast.

We started our meal with champagne and fresh oysters, which were served in a variety of flavors including raspberry tapioca, cucumber foam, fresh watermelon, burrata, and jamón ibérico. The unconventionally sublime flavors effortlessly seduced my tastebuds. Next, we savored a Jerusalem artichoke and rose soup, followed by baba ghanoush risotto with green olives, goat cheese and eggplant espuma. (Reservations recommended.)

Fresh, flavored oysters from Paradigma | Pear & gorzanzola risotto from Bokeria 

Uje Oil Bar 

Dominisova 3

Pioneered by Croatian olive oil retailers, this trendy bistro is hailed for its seasonal Dalmatian fare. The interior is cozy yet refined, while its romantic alleys offer picturesque al fresco dining. You can also sample a variety of Uje's extra virgin olive oils, which may tempt you to pick up a bottle of liquid gold on your way out. Whether you're in the mood for cheese and charcuterie or hearty Dalmatian classics, look no further than Uje Oil Bar.

Luka Ice Cream & Cakes

Svaciceva 2

A local favorite for sweet treats, Luka serves fresh and exotic flavors of ice cream using all natural ingredients. Seeing as Croatia is famous for its lavender fields, Luka's beloved lavender ice cream is a decadent must-try. They also offer light and refreshing flavors to beat the heat, such as peach and cucumber sorbet.

SHOP

Uje 

Maruliceva 1 and Subiceva 6

The same olive oil experts of Uje Oil Bar sell edible souvenirs at their gourmet gift shops. Aside from their quality oils, they also offer flavorful tapenades, local wines, fig products, chocolate, and a colorful assortment of kitchen accessories. Among its many traditional treats, Croatia is celebrated for Hvar's iconic lavender fields and Istria's rich truffles. Be sure to pick up some lavender and truffle based treats, like lavender sea salt or aromatic truffle oil.

In Galerija 

Subica 2

With all of the kitschy trinkets that abound in the touristic center of Split, scouting out quality souvenirs can be a daunting task. That's why I was so thrilled when I stumbled upon the hole in the wall art gallery of In Galerija, nestled in the old town's maze of narrow streets. The cozy shop is overflowing with original pieces of art, all which make for unique and memorable keepsakes. My favorite memento is a small painting of Split's harbor, hand-painted by a local artist on a piece of wine barrel.

RELAX

Ovčice Beach 

Just a ten minute walk past the popular Bačvice beach, the calm shores of Ovčice are a stark contrast from the frat party atmosphere of its next door neighbor. Beach chairs and umbrellas are available to rent, and a nearby beach bar offers snacks and libations. If you're looking for a beach close to the city center but prefer to avoid Bačvice's crowds, murky waters and repetitive thrums of electronic music, peaceful Ovčice is a convenient alternative.

Marjan

For more picturesque spots to soak up the sun in Split, the pebble beaches beneath Marjan hill offer a quieter retreat. Some of the most popular beaches include Kasjuni, Kastelet and Bene, but keep in mind that these are much farther from the city center compared to Bačvice and Ovčice. Not all beaches have chairs or umbrellas available to rent, and beach bars may be far and few between. Consider packing a picnic, and bring plenty of water.

Because most of Croatia's beaches are notably rocky, you'll see many locals adorning water socks. Though they may not be the most fashionable, they'll save your feet from plenty of pain and discomfort. 

Have you ever visited Split?

If so, what other recommendations would you add?