Visiting the Schilthorn: A Swiss Winter Wonderland

Venture above the Swiss Alps

As I soared up the Alps in a packed cable car, sardined between ski poles and snowboards, Switzerland's scenery left me speechless. Snowy peaks sparkled against bright cerulean skies, while pops of color flashed below me as skiers flew down the mountain. Stunned by the sublime beauty of my surroundings, I couldn't help but feel as if I were on a movie set. But in fact, I was.

Made famous by James Bond's "On Her Majesty's Secret Service", the Schilthorn is a picturesque summit with unparalleled views of the Swiss Alps. Just a short day trip from Interlaken, the Schilthorn makes for the ultimate winter wonderland.

Perched atop a frosty summit, the Schilthorn boasts breathtaking panoramas of the "Swiss Skyline", including the commanding peaks of Jungfrau, Eiger, and Mönch. At 2970 meters high, one can venture above the Alps and revel in its otherworldly elegance.

James Bond fans can explore an interactive Bond World exhibit or indulge on a 007 champagne brunch at Piz Gloria, a revolving restaurant flaunting dramatic 360 degree views. Even those unfamiliar with the Bond series are sure to be seduced by the Schilthorn's majestic vistas of the Bernese Oberland.

Stopping in Mürren

To get to and from the Schilthorn, one must change cable cars in the charming village of Mürren. Tucked below the summit, this ski town feels straight out of a storybook. With its cozy chalets and spectacular scenery, it's well worth stopping in this mountainous paradise while making the trek up to the Schilthorn.

As I roamed through the snowy village of Mürren by foot, I was one of the only wanderers not traveling by skis. Every other visitor appeared to be gliding their way through town, most likely skiing back to their warm chalets to sip Swiss hot chocolate by the fire.

Seeing as Mürren is only accessible by cable car, the secluded alpine cabins and intimate fireside terraces seemed all the more romantic. The entire scene was almost too darling for words, and I was half tempted to quit my job and spend the rest of the winter hibernating here.

Getting to the Schilthorn from Interlaken

To arrive at the Schilthorn from Interlaken, one must take a train and a bus, followed by a series of cable cars. While there are a handful of ways to get to the Schilthorn, I opted for the Interlaken - Lauterbrunnen - Stechelberg - Mürren route.

Although the directions appear complicated, they're actually quite straightforward once you're boarding each cable car. Most tourists are also heading in the same direction, signage is clear, and the staff at each crossroads are more than willing to offer guidance.

First, take a local Berner Oberland train from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen. Once you're off the train, cross the street and catch the yellow Post bus to Stechelberg Schilthornbahn. Board the cable car in Stechelberg, then switch to another cable car in Gimmelwald towards Mürren.

Once reaching Mürren, either board the next cable car or stop to explore the quaint ski village. If you opt to head straight to the Schilthorn, catch the cable car in Mürren and switch to another one in Birg. Birg offers phenomenal views of the Bernese Oberland, as well as a Skyline Walk, a Thrill Walk, and a scenic bistro. From Birg, you can take the final cable car to the summit of the Schilthorn.

The entire journey takes about 90 minutes (without stopping in Mürren). Current timetables and fares can be found here.

Is it worth the splurge?

Roundtrip tickets to the Schilthorn from Interlaken Ost (without any discount rail passes) currently cost a whopping 131 CHF, which is roughly equal to $131 or 122€. Tickets can be bought right at the Interlaken Ost train station.

Though visiting the Schilthorn is one of the more expensive day trips from Interlaken, I thought the awe-inspiring scenery and overall experience was worth the extravagant price tag. While it meant that I had to say no to other adventures and forgo experiencing the local cuisine in lieu of cheap sandwiches made from stolen hostel goodies, channeling my inner Elsa above the Swiss Alps was decidedly priceless.

That said, good weather is imperative. It's simply not worth the splurge if skies aren't clear enough to see the Schilthorn's impressive alpine views. Don't hesitate to ask your hotel or hostel if you have any doubts about the forecast or visibility.

Looking for more things to do in Switzerland?

Be sure to read about my experience with Skydive Interlaken!

Have you ever been to the Swiss Alps?
Where is your favorite winter wonderland?

16 Favorite Travel Memories of 2016

Happy New Year! I apologize for my recent absence, for these past few months have been an absolute whirlwind. While I acknowledge that this post is terribly overdue, 2016 was too epic not to pay tribute to!

This past year had its fair share of low moments, including getting detained, breaking up with Madrid, and working through the hardships of repatriating. But 2016 also brought me to 12 countries and over 35 cities, gave me a sweet ending to my memorable chapter abroad, and brought me back to the beloved Pacific Northwest.

Between the legendary adventures and unfathomable challenges, it was truly one hell of a year. To celebrate this year of extremes, here's a look back at my 16 favorite travel memories of 2016.


1. Skydiving in the Swiss Alps

My first adventure of the year was a solo trip to go skydiving in Interlaken, Switzerland. At the risk of sounding hyperbolic, skydiving out of a helicopter in the Swiss Alps was by far the most memorable thing I've ever done abroad.

As I experienced an unparalleled adrenaline rush while surrounded by the most striking scenery, I was filled with an incomprehensible amount of joy. My exhilaration was positively surreal. After the free fall, I was buzzing with euphoria and couldn't stop smiling for weeks.

2. Venturing through Petra

While planning my spring break trip to Israel, I knew I couldn't travel all the way to the Middle East without fulfilling my dream of visiting Petra, Jordan. Ultimately, spending a day channeling my inner Indiana Jones was one of my all-time favorite adventures. I'm eager to get back to Jordan someday to explore more of what this amazing place has to offer!

3. Experiencing Tel Aviv like a local

When one of my sorority sisters moved to Tel Aviv, I saw it as my golden opportunity to finally visit Israel. Between exploring local markets, attending a local synagogue, and observing my first proper Shabbat, I got to go deeper than the traditional tourist experience. 

I felt overwhelmingly grateful to have a local guide show me Tel Aviv's authentic charisma. By the end of my trip, I had my heart set on finding a way to move there someday. (On that note, does anyone know how a shiksa can get a job in Israel?!)

4. Being blown away by Jerusalem

Jerusalem is easily the most captivating city I've ever been to. Visiting "the most contested piece of land in history" was an emotion-filled day, and required quite a bit of processing afterwards.

Tensions were high, but the spirit of the city was full of life. Jerusalem took my breath away in countless ways, but absorbing its character was an experience I'll never forget.

5. Floating on the Dead Sea

While Israel's variety of beaches is nothing short of sublime, nothing quite compares to floating like a cork on the Dead Sea. After visiting Masada's commanding ruins, we ventured to the resort town of Ein Bokek for a lazy afternoon along the Dead Sea.

More than 400 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest place on earth. Due to the unusually high concentrations of salt, effortlessly floating in the water makes for a relaxing, otherworldly experience. (Just don't get the salt water in your eyes!)

6. Eating my way through Asturias

The colorful fishing village of Cudillero

Nestled along the rugged coast of the Bay of Biscay, Asturias is truly Spain's best kept secret. Time and time again, Asturias seduces me and reminds me of the incredible diversity that is to be found within Spain.

And the food... oh, the food! From fresh seafood to rich fabada, Asturias is a culinary mecca. As I ate my way through Oviedo and Cudillero, I probably consumed a year's worth of calories. Spicy chorizo a la sidra, tangy Cabrales cheese, hearty and comforting cachopo, creamy arroz con leche... the list goes on. Washed down with a crisp glass of hard Asturian cider, and my taste buds were in a complete state of euphoria.

7. Soaking up Seville

As the first place in Spain to capture my heart, I felt inclined to bid Seville adieu before leaving the country. Though I've visited countless times, I just can't get enough of its southern charm.

I had less than 24 hours to revisit my favorite places, and I even squeezed in a tapas crawl with Devour Seville Food Tours. While my quick farewell trip wasn't nearly long enough, I know in my heart that I'll be back.

8. Returning to Cádiz

For the first time since studying abroad in 2010, I finally made my return to Cádiz. Though the city hasn't changed much in six years, I felt like a completely different person. (Can you believe that back then, I actually hated living in Spain?! Blasphemy!)

While revisiting old haunts felt entirely bittersweet, I had an incredible time giving the city the second chance it deserves. After this visit, I felt like things have finally come full circle.

9. Stopping in Stockholm with my BFF

Spotted in my natural habitat

We came, we ate, we conquered. After a marvelous week of hosting my best friend in Madrid, we took off to Stockholm for a weekend. Scandinavia never fails to enamor me, and Sweden is certainly no exception. From the pristine waterfront views to the colorful architecture, Stockholm had me swooning. 

10. Coming home to Paris for a weekend

As Gertrude Stein ever so wisely proclaimed, "America is my country, and Paris is my home town." Paris was the first city I ever truly fell in love with, and despite countless visits and a magical study abroad stint, my intense love affair has yet to subside.

I knew I had to visit one more time before moving across the pond, so I spent a long weekend getting lost, catching up with old friends, and devouring as many Ladurée macarons as possible. It was even more perfect than I had imagined.

11. Exploring the Dalmatian Coast with my mom

The sun-drenched coast of Dubrovnik

My European farewell tour concluded with an unforgettable trip through Croatia with my mom. We started off in Zagreb, venturing into Zagorje to visit Trakošćan Castle and Varaždin. We stopped in Plitvice Lakes National Park on our way to Split, where we sunned ourselves until hopping a ferry to Hvar. After a heavenly island escape, we ended our trip in the enchanting city of Dubrovnik.

While Croatia abounds with dreamy escapes and enthralling adventures, there's nothing quite like the dramatic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast. Each place we visited effortlessly seduced us. While I'll always cherish my memories from this trip, a part of me will always dream of going back.

Split's seaside promenade, the Riva

12. Dining in a family olive grove in Hvar

One of the most memorable parts of our journey through Croatia was escaping Hvar's Old Town for a home-cooked dinner in a family-owned olive grove, surrounded by striking views of the Stari Grad Plain. Our gracious hosts prepared an authentic Dalmatian feast for us, complete with homemade cheese, tapenades, wine, and freshly caught sea bass.

As the sun lazily sank into the rolling hills below us, we chatted with the family about their olive grove, their families, and Croatia's tumultuous history. Amid the hordes of tourists abounding in Croatia, genuinely connecting with locals was a refreshing change of pace. 

13. Checking Plitvice Lakes off my bucket list

Though it looks like a scene from a wooded fairytale, Croatia's resplendent Plitvice Lakes National Park is anything but a figment of the imagination. Sixteen cascading lakes beget a series of majestic waterfalls, highlighted by pools of clear jewel-tone water. A most impressive feat of nature, Plitvice Lakes is the ultimate bucket list-worthy adventure.

14. Snorkeling in Iceland's Silfra fissure

Located in Thingvellir National Park, the Silfra fissure is where two continents rip apart. Thanks to Arctic Adventures, I was able to snorkel between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This crack between the continents is filled with glacier water clear enough to see down to 100 meters!

The water gets its pristine qualities from being filtered through underground lava for 30-100 years. Due to its extreme visibility, the Silfra fissure is widely regarded as one of the best dive sites in the world.

The Silfra fissure is the only place in the world where you can snorkel between two tectonic plates

15. Jet setting to Los Angeles for birthday celebrations galore

Posing with the LACMA lights

Since my best friend Meghan lives in downtown Los Angeles (and Seattle constantly deprives me of Vitamin D), I find myself taking frequent trips down to LA. I booked a spontaneous trip for my birthday in July, and followed up with a trip in December for my BFF's 30th birthday. 

I could certainly see myself living in Los Angeles someday. Between the sunshine, bustling city vibes, and the wonderful friends that live there, I can't stop buying tickets to visit. (Thank goodness for Alaska Airlines miles!)

16. Taking an impulsive solo trip to Puerto Rico

When I spontaneously booked my ticket to Puerto Rico two weeks before leaving, I had no idea what to expect. As it turns out, it was my favorite solo trip I've ever taken.

Between the stunning scenery, vibrant culture, mouthwatering cuisine, and incredible people I met, I fell more and more in love with this island as each day passed. Exploring Puerto Rico brought me back to life, and ultimately gave me the energy I needed to start the new year with a sense of purpose.

A snorkeling trip to Vieques, Puerto Rico

WHAT'S IN STORE FOR 2017?

While 2016 will be a tough year to beat, 2017 is already shaping up to be quite memorable. I rang in the new year on the road, I started taking Portuguese classes, and I just moved into a new apartment near downtown Seattle!

For my spring break in April, I'll be heading to Hanoi, Vietnam to visit one of my best friends that I taught English with in Madrid. It'll be my first time in Southeast Asia, and I couldn't be more excited to explore a new corner of the world. On my way home, I plan on taking advantage of an extended layover in Seoul, South Korea.

Given my newfound love for the Caribbean, I'm also in the midst of planning a potential trip to Cuba in July. I need more sunshine, palm trees, and a rum cocktail in hand, por favor!

As you can see, I have a terribly long backlog of blog posts to crank out. I can't wait to share more photos and stories from the past year's adventures, so stay tuned!

Cheers, 2016!

What were your favorite travel memories of 2016?

Do you have any exciting travel plans for 2017?

Eating Gluten-Free in Croatia

It's no secret that I sightsee through my tastebuds. 

Although I was diagnosed with Celiac disease in 2010, avoiding gluten has not stopped me from tasting my way around the globe. Upon traveling to Croatia with my mom, a fellow Celiac, I was determined to make it one of our best foodie adventures yet.

Croatia had been at the top of my bucket list for years, but I knew relatively little about its cuisine. As we ate our way through Croatia, we were surprised and delighted by how Celiac friendly the food is.

With each stop on our adventure through Croatia, it became easier to find gluten-free options. We started off in Zagreb, venturing into Zagorje to visit Trakošćan Castle and Varaždin. We stopped in Plitvice Lakes National Park on our way to Split, where we sunned ourselves until hopping a ferry to Hvar. After a heavenly island escape, we ended our trip in the magical city of Dubrovnik.

While Croatia itself is a dream destination, the gastronomy alone is reason enough to visit. If you're planning a trip to Croatia with Celiac disease or a gluten intolerance, here is my complete guide to eating gluten-free in Croatia.

HELPFUL HINTS

While most restaurants don't have a separate gluten-free menu, some may mark which dishes are bez glutena (gluten-free). If the menu doesn't specify, don't hesitate to ask the restaurant if a dish contains gluten or can be prepared gluten-free.

In general, be wary of sauces, desserts, and most polenta. Always double check when ordering soups and stews, as many can contain flour or pasta. Just in case, print out a gluten-free Croatian
restaurant card to show your waiters if you have any doubts about a dish's ingredients.

Surprisingly, most restaurants are actually quite knowledgeable and accommodating. This could be due to the heavy influx of tourists in recent years, or simply because Croatian cuisine is naturally gluten-free friendly. In fact, most of my waiters already knew which dishes were safe to eat without having to go back to the kitchen to ask.

Eating gluten-free in coastal Croatia

Cuisine on the Dalmatian Coast is remarkably similar to Italian fare, which makes it all the more convenient to navigate as a Celiac. Due to its fresh Mediterranean flavors, you usually can't go wrong with seafood, grilled fish and meat, vegetable dishes, or prosciutto with melon.

Authentic Croatian risotto is not prepared with flour, which usually makes it a reliable choice. (That said, it's wise to double check with each restaurant.) If you're feeling adventurous, try the crni rizot, a black risotto made with squid ink. Be sure to also try peka, a method of cooking meat and vegetables under a domed baking lid.

Eating gluten-free in continental Croatia

Continental Croatian cuisine, on the other hand, is heartier than its coastal counterparts. Continental Croatia features a stronger emphasis on meat dishes and heavy stews. As opposed to the Italian-inspired gastronomy of Dalmatia, this region's cuisine is influenced by its central European neighbors. The Austro-Hungarian tastes make it slightly more difficult to find naturally gluten-free options.

In Zagreb and Zagorje, we relied on roasted lamb, potatoes, and charcuterie plates. Vegetables are generally used less in continental fare, but we were still able to find the occasional salad. While it was less convenient to eat gluten-free in continental Croatia, we still found a plethora of viable options.

With a myriad of gluten-free options and a cuisine that naturally accommodates Celiacs, eating gluten-free in Croatia shouldn't be a considerable challenge. The following restaurants have my favorite gluten-free dishes, so prepare your tastebuds for a gluten-free feast of Croatian treats.

DUBROVNIK

Proto

Široka 1

Founded in 1886, Proto is one of Dubrovnik's oldest and most revered eateries. Known for its exquisite seafood, Proto specializes in fish dishes using traditional recipes from local fishermen. Atop the elegant terrace, one is sure to enjoy five-star service and cuisine.

Proto has attracted a distinguished list of patrons, including a glamorous array of actors, musicians and royals. If you're willing to splurge, look no further than Proto. Reservations recommended.

Contemplating the GF menu on Proto's breezy terrace

Stara Loza

Prijeko 24

This romantic rooftop restaurant, perched atop the chic Hotel Prijeko Palace, offers an entirely unique gastronomic experience. Serving a tasty array of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, Stara Loza incorporates gourmet flavors with memorable twists. My tastebuds rejoiced as I indulged on a fresh citrus salad and juicy sirloin steak with Brie, wasabi and pepper jam.

While the cuisine is decidedly out of this world, the dreamy vistas and whimsical settings make Stara Loza all the more impressive. Reservations recommended.

Stara Loza's rooftop views at blue hour

SPLIT

Bokeria 

Domaldova 8

Named after Barcelona's most iconic market, Bokeria is a mecca of modern Mediterranean cuisine. This bustling restaurant thrives in a former hardware store, where contemporary flavors are reflected in the fittingly sleek and industrial decor.

After our first lunch here, the heavenly flavors and impressive wine list convinced us to come back for a second meal. I still dream about the carpaccio with pickled onions, candied walnuts and honey mustard, along with the pear, asparagus and gorgonzola risotto. (Reservations recommended.)

Legendary carpaccio at Bokeria

Paradigma

Ulica Bana Josipa Jelacica 3

My rooftop feast at Paradigma was the crown jewel of gastronomic experiences in coastal Croatia. Resting atop an elegant terrace with inviting views of the sea and old town, Paradigma serves a blend of traditional Mediterranean gastronomy with unique contemporary twists. Indulgence is the name of the game here, as exemplified by our decadent feast.

We started our meal with champagne and fresh oysters, which were served in a variety of flavors including raspberry tapioca, cucumber foam, fresh watermelon, burrata, and jamón ibérico. The unconventionally sublime flavors effortlessly seduced my tastebuds. Next, we savored a Jerusalem artichoke and rose soup, followed by baba ghanoush risotto with green olives, goat cheese and eggplant espuma. (Reservations recommended.)

Bokeria's pear, asparagus and gorgonzola risotto

Uje Oil Bar 

Dominisova 3

Pioneered by Croatian olive oil retailers, this trendy bistro is hailed for its seasonal Dalmatian fare. The interior is cozy yet refined, while its romantic alleys offer picturesque al fresco dining. You can also sample a variety of Uje's extra virgin olive oils, which may tempt you to pick up a bottle of liquid gold on your way out. Whether you're in the mood for cheese and charcuterie or hearty Dalmatian classics, look no further than Uje Oil Bar.

HVAR

Giaxa
Petra Hektorovica 3

Our most decadent meal in Hvar was enjoyed at Giaxa, where we savored carpaccio with black truffle and Parmesan, lamb rack with white polenta, and green beans with pancetta. After an extravagant meal and several glasses of Pošip wine on the cozy terrace, Giaxa goes down as one of my favorite restaurants on the Dalmatian Coast. (Reservations recommended.)

Gariful's fresh mussels (not pictured: a phenomenal glass of local rosé)

Gariful

Riva 21

Along Hvar's polished waterfront lies the elegant terrace of Gariful, where the sparkling seaside views are almost as sublime as the seafood. From the patio's white tablecloths adorned with fresh seafood and world-class wines, one can watch opulent yachts sail into the harbor and chic passersby strolling the Riva (and maybe even spot a celebrity or two).

The refined nautical settings exude luxury. Though the prices are steep, the locale and fresh fare are worth the splurge. Reservations recommended.

ZAGREB

Vinodol

Nikole Tesle 10

Located in the heart of downtown Zagreb, Vinodol serves some of the capital's best cuisine. Gourmet yet unpretentious, Vinodol is revered for its classic continental dishes. Their succulent meals are prepared using seasonal ingredients, which follow traditional Croatian recipes. 

Savor the spit roasted lamb, seasonal soups, and charcuterie plates piled high with local sausages and cheeses. Pair them with a velvety glass of Croatian wine from Vinodol's phenomenal wine list. For a romantic and relaxed meal, reserve a spot on the airy covered patio.

Vinodol's platter of spicy sausages and fresh cheese

VARAŽDIN

Restoran Bedem
Vladimira Nazora 9

Named one of the Top 10 restaurants in Croatia, Bedem is the crown jewel of Varaždin. Two distinguished Croatian chefs have come together to establish this gastronomic gem, which is nestled just behind Varaždin's castle. Using fresh and local ingredients, Bedem serves some of the highest quality creations in continental Croatia.

Here I indulged on a five-course meal that was arguably one of the best dining experiences of my life. Every dish was bursting with flavor, and the chefs went above and beyond to accommodate my gluten-free needs. Out of all the incredible meals I devoured in Croatia, my feast at Bedem was surely the most memorable.

A five-star meal at Bedem

Note: Although I'm usually quite sensitive to cross-contamination, I didn't get sick from any of these restaurants. That said, I did not look into how these restaurants prevent (or fail to prevent) cross-contamination, so eat at your own risk.

Do you have any food allergies or intolerances?

If so, how do you deal with them on the road?